It's all too common in Latin America, where the divide between rich and poor is usually very wide, to hear stark differences in outlook and attitudes at the table. When dining with the rich, the poor are often referred to with varying degrees of fear, condescension, and outright contempt. Unsurprisingly, conversations at the tables of the poor express an entirely predictable desire to see the heads of the rich paraded on stakes. Seldom do the two strata of society agree on anything beyond soccer.
So, imagine my surprise to hear--again and again--expressions of optimism, hope, good feelings, and a general belief that things were going pretty well--in Colombia. In Medellin, no less, not too long ago the murder capital of the world! In expensive restaurants frequented by the well to do, the kind of people whose cars are bulletproofed, who travel with armed drivers--and later-- in what was the toughest, poorest barrio in the city, I heard the same thing. That the government seemed to be doing a pretty damn good job, that things were getting better and better, that the future looked bright--and that it was very good thing to be Colombian, and from Medellin in particular.
In a world where the bad guys seem to win with a relentless regularity, and where even the presumed good guys appear, usually, to be their own worst enemies, it's really gratifying to see things get so dramatically better somewhere--especially a place where at one time, it really and truly looked hopeless. It is inspiring, when you've gotten used to the notion that some problems probably won't ever be fixed in your lifetime, to see some of the very worst kind of seemingly insurmountable problems so quickly and effectively improve. When you see a real change in the conditions and in the human hearts of a place where just a few short years ago, one neighbor couldn't walk twenty yards over without risking death from another, where drug cartels recruited their murderous young footsoldiers by the hundreds, where even the police feared to tread--it makes one hopeful again--about the whole world.
Colombia. Vacation Wonderland? Yes. Absolutely.
I can't think of another country where the No Reservations crew has been welcomed so enthusiastically everywhere we went. Absolutely everybody we met seemed delighted and proud that we'd come to point our cameras at them. And we were allowed and enabled, I should point out, to point them any damn where we pleased. Someone less...forgiving in temperament, less zen-like than me might feel tempted to point out to some other tourist boards the wisdom of letting us go and do whatever we want--no matter how uncomfortable the official organs might be about some of our interests--compared to the result when officialdom tries to "manage" what we see and don't see. . As it turned out, it was the uncontrollable elements, the poor fishermen, the inner city market workers, the residents of the neighborhood in Medellin with the very worst reputation who did their country most proud.
What you might not know about Colombia is that it's beautiful. That the food is really good--with the same kind of fantastic mix of African, European and indigenous influences that makes Brazilian cuisine so interesting and vibrant. That they actually like Americans down there.
It was against this backdrop of bubbly goodwill, that I watched Ingrid Betancourt and her fellow hostages freed from captivity a couple of weeks ago--in what appears to be yet another in a series of spectacular and effective strikes against the FARC, a particularly unlovely bunch of hardcore commie/narco-terrorist kidnapper/"guerillas" who've been getting knocked back on their heels in recent years.
On one hand, the government seems to be killing and capturing bad guys with skill and vigor. On the other hand, the local government in Medellin (for instance) has been improving transportation and social services for the working poor--and throwing an incredible FORTY percent of total budget at education. It looks and feels like a working combination.
As you watch the episode, the pride you see in the faces of the people I talk to--and hear in their voices--it's real.
Hola! I like the lime and garlic marinate for my steaks on the grill in Cali! Yummy!
I had been waiting the Colombia episode impatiently since I read a brief note about it in El Colombiano. I've always liked how Bourdain has countered many stereotypes and fears that many hold (and I include myself) against the places he visits.
As a Colombian-American who grew up in Envigado and whose family is from the La Paz neighborhood, I was delighted to see a show that broke from the common theme and confronted the prejudice that is not only held around the world against Colombia, but also within Colombia against Medellín and within wealthier Medellín residents against their neighbors in the northern neighborhoods.
Some of the shots taken at Brasa Arepa in Envigado caught views of the house where my father grew up and once owned a hardware store - the one with the red tiles across the street, seen when Bourdain was in focus. This episode brought back many memories - I can´t wait the two weeks that I have left before I visit in August, just in time for the Flower Festival. And no, it is not about hippies - nothing against them though - think of it as a celebration of Antioquia´s culture.
Bourdain and staff - Keep up the great work, Jaime Soto
Hi Anthony!
I just want you to know that you are fantastic! I really admire you and your work, you are great!
I look you as my inspiration, soon enough i will become a chef, i just love to cook, and when i heard that you're a chef i really wanna pursue my culinary study i will try my best to be the best.
More power Mr. Anthony!
Joshua, 17
Thanks Tony for bringing Medellin to the attention of the outside world for all the right reasons. Hopefully you have encouraged more travellers, and more travel shows to come pay us a visit.
I live in Montana, I look forward to watching your show.
one of these daysm you will to arrive when we are eating
rattle snakes and rocky mountain organs...
Again, thanks for bringing into our homes the places you
have traveled and their food
this is the big great show iloved this program and anthony is the better.
congratulations anthony.
During the past year I have met a wonderful woman from Bogota, visited this wonderful city and in August we were married in Bogota. When I watch your show on Columbia it brings me back every time to this beautiful country, so misunderstood yet slowly the world is seeing the true Columbia. My wife's family has welcomed me with open arms and everywhere I go I am greeted with smiles and warmth. Bogota is an amazing, vibrant city and learning about the food has been a great experience. Your show captured the true heart of Columbia, it's people and the transformation that has taken place there. Mostly I am suprised at how what I have experienced there has altered my view of America and how sheltered and shallow we are as a country. Columbia is real, honest, passionate and it's people are it's real treasure. Thank you so much for doing this show, now you need to do one on Bogota. My wife who was born in the country outside of Bogota and has lived there for much of her life and I would love to be your host.
Thank you so much for your positive comments. you are great, God bless you.
Colombia is indeed a great country and Colombians are fantastic people. Don't believe everything you hear about how great it is that the army is killing "bad guys", though. Being smart and well-travelled you should know things can't be that simple. Read http://www.washingtonpost.com/wp-dyn/content/article/2008/11/04/AR2008110403600.html for a start.
Thanks
Next time pick up different point of view about the situation of Colombia. The girl with name Camila her husband and a third girl that I don't remember her name, where obviously
bias. The president of Colombia violet more human rights then any other president in the history of this country, the places that the travel channel visit in the comunas of Medellin are been investigate right now because thy are full of mass graves, the mafia is has more power then ever, the killing of poor community members is also in escalate. shame on you, what happen the poor victims are not important or what?
I'm from Colombia, from the north coast (Barranquilla) but living in USA. I'm so excited that you went to my country! I can't wait to watch this episode! A friend from Tonga, who works with me just told me about it today. I know your show and I love it! I hope you go back, but to my city. Our food and culture are very diverse, you will love it!!!
Born in Cuba and married a paisa in 2001, have been in this country for almost 30 years, My first trip to Medellin, Colombia in 2002 fell in love from the moment I step down from the airplane, Since then I go to Medellin 2 times a year, FERIA DE fLORES AND NAVIDADES, sometimes 3 , But I believe that Antonio missed a lot of goods places from Medellin. I HOPE SOMEDAY I COULD GO BACK AND RETIRE IN MEDELLIN. LA CIUDAD DE LA ETERNA PRIMAVERA
Anthony if you get this message before December 25 of 2008 writte me I will be in Medallo till January I'm certain that I can show you a better side of Medellin than eating sancocho on a rooftop of Building
!!!!!!VIVA COLOMBIA!!!!!!!
!!JOEPUCHA!!
Anthony, thank you so much for a great show. I am Colombian myself and I am proud to see a positive, flattering yet real side of my country. I love your ability to relate, your sincerity and lack of pretentiousness. I also loved your show on Mexico and your support for the Latin community. Way to go, congratulations for a well done show!!! Saludos!!! Carolina
i enjoy anthony so much, he is a more life like person than any one on travel.he seems to enjoy every body he meets.and is more like a regular person, i can relate to that, some of the food people are more like pigs.yayayaya.. he enjoys it a a slower pace.. i like that , ive been dwon to colombia to assist this lady who helps the poor children.and am going back soon tto check on her.and the colombian people were so friendly.all over the place. i went to villavicenceo across the andes.and it was so lovely.and stayed in bogota , for some days.the family i stayed with it cost me nothing, they were so grand..most all colombia people are so sweet.anthony you do so good a show,,its so enjoyable....go back to colombia and get out in the country...the road side open giant steak house.out of villavicenceo is the greatest...a steak as big as a platter..wonderful food. .its great...thank you anthony for a very good program.....when so much junk is on t.v. your show is one of the best..
Not only a "Vacation Wonderland". for me, as a Colombian living temporarily in the UK, Colombia is PARADISE !!!
Thanks Anthony
I had never been the least interested in seeing Colombia before this episode. Now, I'd like to visit, including Medellin. But what was the name of that restaurant in the mountains where the owner is doing such brilliant things with traditional Colombian food? I can't catch the name of the place, and I'd like to find it. I intend to go there someday, God willing.
Hi Greg,
here the restaurant you are looking for:
Queareparaenamorarte http://www.arepamor.com/ On the road from Medellin to El Retiro, this restaurant has the best of the local cuisine. The owner has done extensive research of the typical Colombian flavours and culinary traditions, and as a result the menu has a variety of starters and main courses including chorizos, empanadas and beans with different types of picantes and side dishes. To get there, take a bus ($2) to El Retiro from Centro Comercial San Diego and get off at Partidas de la Fe, also known as la Y de la Fe. Main courses range from $10 to $15. It was featured on Anthony Bourdain's "No Reservations" on the Travel Channel.
I have seen your show since the very first episode. I have seen you travel the world over. And for that You have y respect, however, my admiration was won when you dared to go where neither zimmern, nor brown EVER dared. COLOMBIA. My country. I was full of pride when I saw my favorite chef, and author, travel trough my humble colombia with no expectations, maybe even with some reservatons, and leave in awe of what we truly are. I think that you should re-visit colombia in another episode and go to La Sierra Nevada de Santa Marta, the world's highes coastal range. Or maybe visit Los Llanos Orientales and try the Ternera a La Llanera. Go to Armenia, Quindio and visit El parque del Cafe, and try some coffee-made goodies. As I am sure you see, I am a proud Colombian, and you my friend are now a Colombian at heart. Who can help but to fall in love with such beauty? KUDOS ANTHONY!!!
This episode was terible! Im Colombian and I am embaressed about this.... it was not at all what colombia is all about. Medellin IS infact very beautifull but the people you chose to interpret it were terrible they didnt know anything. You should plan on revisiting and looking into going to bogota and all its wonderfull restaurants. The "ajiaco" you had wasnt even real and that "rapper wannabe" wasnt even a real chef. They dont represent the real Colombia, neither do I. Real colombian people, with real pride should have led your program not those random persons that didnt even know what they were saying. Im truly dissapointed in this im a true colombian at heart and you mainky fcoused on the "guerilla" not cool.
i hope you do better next time :-(
so, what about the most wonderful city in colombia and south america, bogota, if you like medellin, sure it's good but, come and look Bogota and its cousine
You did an amazing job at showing the real people and food of Colombia. Anybody can go to the luxury hotels, and interview the elite. Looking beyond that takes a little more work and a a lot more passion. You succeed at both.
Keep it coming.
Rocio
good
karınca yumurtası, tala, tala yağı, karınca yumurtası satış
Would like to know why Mr. Bourdain hates SWITZERLAND so much! By the way, I was born in Mierdellin, Col. of Swiss parents.
It is pretty cool to see that some people realize that Colombia is more than narcos and guerrila. Ha, i am colombian and i was living in Buenos Aires almost 2 years. Working like a waitress i had to listened the wrong idea that some foreigners have about Colombia, they were afraid to go!. So, thanks Anthony to "take the great risk" to travel here. I hope you have tried arepas, chocolate and platanos con hogao. They are the best!!!. I hope to see the episode.
Peace
I feel bad that i missed the episode on Colombia. A friend just told me about it. Will it air again????? I wouldn't miss it for the world.
Does anyone know where I can get this episode of Colombia on DVD?
Hi!
im german-hungarian and loving Colombia too!
Karenology.. Colombia is NOT,NOT,NOT, a third world country.. And, most families would refuse compensation for showing someone their city/country....
THANK YOU FOR SHOWING THIS TRUTH ABOUT COLOMBIA!!!
I liked your show before; now I'm your biggest fan.
Thank you Anthony, again and again!!
Can't wait to visit Colombia, looks really cool !!!
Anthony, dont know if you got the chanve to visit Cartagena while in colombia, its a small but warm city near the coast, where the food its amazing, the colors, people, the history and so much more to come and see!! A very nice place to live and visit!!
Anyways hope you get the chance to come, and thanks for showing people from all over the world that we are not all bad as the news may show! and that we have a wonderfull and beautiful coutry, every foreinger thats has the chance to come to Colombia, they just want to stay for longer!!!
Thank you for writing articles like this and show a better point of view of my country !
Glad u found Colombia. It is the jewel of forgotten worlds. Drugs and girls for all to see, just a few dollars and pesos for all to live
Just to add some other words. Was great seeing that you went to COlombia! I went to Winnipeg to see you and bought your book and I was very amazed to hear that Colombia was the country that you were looking for to visiting the most. From all the shows I have seeing about Colombia yours was diferent and you didn't emphazised so much about drugs and cartels which was great. I'm glad you showed to the world that Colombia is also about food, people and beautiful places.
By the way I felt really jealous seeing you eating all that delicous food.
Anthony congrats!
Cmo se llama el dueo de Quehareparaenamorarte?
gracias
Anthony im a Big fan of your show. Let me tell you it was about time you come to Colombia, I have one question, why don't you drink coffe?, you were very close to the Cafetales in Armenia & Pereira where the best coffe in the world is made. It's also a shame that you didn't come to known other beautiful cities and taste such a great food in other departments such as Valle, Meta, Choc and Nario. Every department in Colombia are like different Countries by themselves in food matters. Anyway thanks so much for visit us, I hope you come back soon.
This was such a great episode. I am a gringo from the States and have been going back and back to Brasil since 2001 and am an addict of sorts. But my next trip will be to Colombia and Brasil will have to wait. I have already lined up a couple of sweet chicas to show me around. They seem so cool and friendly.
I never find this story, Thanks for it
hi..!!! i want to thank you how well u showed my country..!!! i'm from colombia..and im glad that people started to look colombia in a new way, is not just drugs and killing people all the time, and recommend people to go to colombia its a beautiful country full of flavor, culture, and hot girls..thank you again Anthony Bourdain..all i can say is enjoy...!!! bye any question about colombia let me know = danielval_92@hotmail.com
hoo and is COLOMBIA not COLUMBIA..!!!!!
im glad you saw in medellin what i did. im a gringa that fell in love with medellin, found a job and is currently living la vida paisa down here. to all of you who are now planning on traveling to colombia, especially medellin, beware that you may just wind up falling in love and moving down here yourselves. you have now been warned.
While I was on vacation in Colombia last fall, I was touring the country with my dad. It was a wonderful experience to be alone with him in the car driving through my beautiful country, talking about anything and everything. While in one of our conversations I made some statements about the internal struggle I have lived all my life; as a Colombian immigrant child.
Great show, thanks for coming to Colombia, I loved your show Mr. Bourdain.
Mr. Bourdain, your episode on Columbia was yet another great show! As a major fan, I have seen most of your shows and I've noticed you haven't done an episode in Costa Rica.. After living there on and off for the past 5 years, I have learned that this country and its culture has an incredible amount to offer. Please find time to visit Costa Rica for a future episode!!
Thanks for helping us show the real Colombia to the world!!
As a Colombian, it was nice to watch the Colombia episode, though not a typical picture-perfect spots tourist-focused show, you've achieved to show a small piece of Colombia as-is; still, a lot of room for follow-up episodes and therefore to consider other Colombian regions and "cuisines" to visit than Cartagena and Medellin. One thing everybody can truly claim about every Colombian is the fact of us being as the best hosts as we can possibly try; dont know why, but we love foreigners and somehow our pride is fed up when someone coming from outside our borders says that Colombia is indeed a nice place to visit. Any foreigner wanting to stay at Colombia is an achievement for us.
Great to see Colombia being promoted as a travel destination. The country really does have it all!
I love the show that you did Tony. I have been to medellin and have a girlfriend there now. i go to see her now about 2 times a month and love every minute of it.
I would like to Welcome anyone to come with me to Medellin Colombia. We can show any one a great time and the only regret you will have is having to leave. I will Promise you this.Brianacw@gmail.com
I am from Cali, but I couldn't have been happier to see my favorite Hedonist hanging out in Cartagena and Medellin. I was freakin' teary-eyed through the whole episode! I live in Iowa with my gringo husband, who lived ten years in my wonderful city and, if it hadn't been for "la situacion", would still be there. We've been here since 1984 and still miss it. Tan lindos los colombianos! (The episode in Tuscany wasn't too shabby, Tony!)
I had never seen your show before, but had the fortune to watch it last week for the first time when you visited Colombia and I was pleasently surprised. Great show. Thank you!
Thanks Anthony for visiting our lovely country COLOMBIA. It was very beautiful to see you there!!! We watch the program today in Australia...touch our hearts!!! We hope you can go back again.
Recently got back from Cartagena (plus a few days in Santa Marta) and it was great-it is still truly a hidden gem as far as most tourists go. The historic old walled city is amazing and everything was cool. I ate at La Cevicheria where Anthony started this episode but Jorge wasn't there that night. Stopped by a week later as things were getting busy and he was there and showed him a pic I have of me and a friend with Anthony in Portland Oregon. BTW, La Vitrola is a great restaurant too.
Anthony:
Thank you so much for doing this beautiful program about my country, Colombia. I felt vey proud when I saw the program, and my husband, who is an american, read your article about this episode on a flight going to Bogota and came talking about it. Colombia is a wonderful country and has many things to offer to tourists. I hope you return some day and visit Bogota and towns near the city. I have a farm 2 hours and half from Bogota; my family and me would love to take you and your crew there and show you towns like Raquira and Villa de Leiva. I live in Chicago and my friends tease me saying that I am like an embassador because of all the things I say about my country.People here in the United States need to hear good news about Colombia and your program showed a real face of the country, it's people and it's culture. Thank you very much.
HOW COME YO DID NOT GO TO THE CAPITAL CITY OF COLOMBIA, BOGOTA!!! I JUST DONT GET IT!
Your kind words on this blog made me teary eyed. Thank you for the courage to visit us beyond the bad press and see our coutry through the heart's eyes .Hope you go back again . Love ...and MIL GRACIAS
I`d like for you to do another piece about other parts of Colombian cuisine. The food´s country is so diverse perhaps due to climate / altitude that you´ll be amazed. So many kinds of arepas, soups and stews, meats, fruits and all the life about cooking / food.
I offer to host you when in Bucaramanga
Columbia is a wonderful place to travel if you know where you are going and the food is excellent.
Your show has just aired on Colombian television after a long wait. Thank you very much for providing an different point of view on a misunderstood and misrepresented country.
Anthony always adds significant humour. Great to see him in colombia with its varied regional platos, exotic fruits & aguadiente.
Marcus Horne / Sochagota
I just got back from a week in Colombia. My girlfriend and I spent our first three days in the North and Central Bogota, then during the last run of our trip we took a ride to Villa De Leyva, a 16th century historical and very romantic town.
The hospitality was unbelievable. Aside from the occasional "gringo" and "gringa" that was heard, friendly faces and friendly gestures made the trip an experience of a lifetime.
I'm late on cathing this episode, but I'll be sure to catch up and check this out. Thanks for your commentary on the progress that the Colombian government and its people are making. It couldn't have been said better.
I'm so happy that Anthony went to Colombia.... ;)
Our country is BEAUTIFUL.. and its sad that a lot of people have a bad impression of Colombia.
Anthony you should go to Cali next... You will have a great time for sure... very nice people ...
congratulations by the program that did in Colombia, so short pity; because it lacked many other regions very different from which knew; but a same essence of people trying to find its own identity
hey!! Anthony visit Santiago de Cali, is here in Colombia is another beautiful city.....
thanks for visit my wonderfull country...
muakkkkkkkkkkkk
Colombia is a fascinating country and one which is close to my heart as I went and taught English there for 2 years quite recently. Such poverty but a country rich in culture.
The Colombia show is one of my favourites to date. It is off the beaten tourist track and for me makes it more interesting to see on your show.
Hi,
my name is Nicole and I work in tourism in Colombia. I´m german and I live in Colombia since almost 3 years. It is very important to me that the image of Colombia will change to a good one. I´ve heard from many people about the report of Anthony Bourdain in Colombia but I couldn´t find a link to see the whole show.
Is there a posibility to see it?
Muchos saludos
Nicole
saw your show on colombia this year. inspired me and my friend to visit the country.
just got back and had an amazing time. great show, great food, great country
As a Conference Interpreter I get to greet many visitors. On their mad rush to take care of business, most of them lack or miss the very thing which makes your work so appealing: a knack to pick the right spots where you get closer to the real town. Places to mingle and places to learn, to see and to be seen. Out of a wide array of places you came to the right spot, to the right town. The world will hear good things about Medellin in the near future. Thanks for helping us get closer to other good peoples of the world. WELCOME TO MEDELLIN
When you see a real change in the conditions and in the human hearts of a place where just a few short years ago, one neighbor couldn't walk twenty yards over without risking death from another, where drug cartels recruited their murderous young footsoldiers by the hundreds,
It is good to hear something nice, besides killing and drugs, about Colombia. It really is a beautifull country whit nice people and great food.
Dear Anthony, thank you SO MUCH for visiting Medellin! I saw that episode and could not believe you had had the swingin' cojones to do it, after all that's been said about our lovely city from afar, it seemed so frightfully narco-dominated and violent. I remember days during the car-bomb orgies where I would hide in the bathroooms of my fancy job on Madison Ave and cry for the family and friends I had left behind, and worry about their very uncertain futures. When the situation started to improve and we elected a President with steel cojones, I wondered who would be the first brave one to reinforce that vision and show the world what we've been through and what we could accomplish and offer the world, who would be the person who would FINALLY show his bravado, and how glad was I to see it was you, my friend.
Muchas gracias, from the bottom of my heart... and kudos, bravo to you, you have my unwavering attention now, and thanks for showing us that what really matters is our background, our ethnia, our flavors, colors and sounds.
Fuerte abrazo, another number one fan,
Karin
Dear Anthony, I have to say I was thrilled to see you do a piece on Colombia. My Fiance is from Bogota, and I have travelled to Colombia many times. I am glad your show caputured the changes made there, really the people are warm and friendly, and I feel as safe there as I do in the States. The food is spectacular, I have never eaten better than I do when I am in Colombia, even the Malls food courts in Colombia offer wide range of authentic foods. Thanks Anthony for this spectacular espisode, I have watched it at least 3 seperate times.
This is one i can share with the rest of my family so they can see why i enjoy watching you so much
ventrilo servers
I have always wanted to travel to South America and your blog made me feel even more inspired. I find it interesting to explore countries from a culinary point of view, as I find that cuisine and the relationship that people have with food reveal a lot about a country. I look forward to seeing your programme on Colombia.
I think it is great that in a country like Colombia things are improving. I have been there (I stayed with friends) and loved it and I especially loved the food.
So it doesn't bother you to be eating an endangered species of turtle and its eggs?! It's something they're been doing for many years, so who are you to argue is the excuse? As long as your show gets good ratings and you get to feed your face, I guess that's all that matters. 'Wouldn't want to offend your host, eh, tough guy?