An interesting visual, phenomonen occurred during the editing of the Spain show. Though Albert Adria had graciously agreed to appear in a scene in the El Bulli "taller" (workshop), and another (since edited out) at a restaurant in Barcelona, like some kind of ghostly optical illusion, or a "Where's Waldo" book, he kept popping up.
The hapless, ZPZ tape-loggers, caffeine-jacked myrmidons who toil away in the filthy sub-cellar of our corporate headquarters, reviewing hour after hour of mind-numbingly repetitive and boring video tape, noticing this spectral apparition, began to lose their already tentative grips on reality. One scene after another, a glimpse here, a face in the crowd there, lurking suspiciously in the background in another scene, down the bar a few positions, pretending he doesn't know me in another -- or front and center; there he is.
It's Albert's very ubiquitousness in the raw footage, his omnipresence -- even in the scenes where the viewer won't see him, that tells you all you need to know about Spain -- and how damn good it is.
Understand: Albert, along with his brother, Ferran, is a chef/owner of the three Michelin starred El Bulli, the hardest to reserve, restaurant table in the world. He's a national hero, an international superstar in the world of chefs and restaurants. Suffice to say that just about anywhere in the world of fine dining, from Shanghai to San Francisco; when Albert walks in the door, the whole place goes on Red Alert. He's used to the very best. If there's a downside to his life in the culinary firmament, it's that too much foie gras, truffles and expensive wine come his way.
As a chef at El Bulli, hugely respected pastry chef -- and as the owner of a casual eatery in Barcelona, he can surely have the very best Spanish ingredients delivered anywhere he wants, quickly, with a phone call. You'd think, he'd be a bit .....jaded by it all.
Yet, there he was at Espinaler, gobbling up those supernaturally delicious, canned cockles and razor clams and mussels like he'd never had them before. Tagging along at Quimet and Quimet, shoveling in the tapas with a big smile on his face. Out in the country, with a silly red bib, a blissed-out expression, sucking down the calcots and the red wine like it was his last meal on earth.
I've never seen anyone so happy to be in Spain -- and (this is my point here) HE FREAKIN' LIVES THERE!!!
All that magnificent food -- all those cool little tapas bars, they're right down the street--and yet, it was like he just landed in Barcelona from Mars. His enthusiasm for his own country, his own heritage, the everyday places and things of Spain was something to see.
Naturally this made me misanthropic and deeply envious.
Why can't I have that? How come I gotta go halfway across the earth -- to like, Singapore, or Hong Kong (or Spain), for instance, to really get MY culinary jollies these days? He's on a magic carpet ride in his own town and I'm like a full-bloom junkie, the honeymoon period over, needing a higher and higher dosage to get off in MY home town of New York!. Why?
The sad fact is, we'll never -- and I mean NEVER have it so good as in Spain. It's not like we don't have great restaurants in Manhattan - -and will surely have many more. And certainly, we can get many of the same ingredients jetted over (more or les s-- if at a steep price). No. It's attitudinal. You can faithfully reproduce the look of a Spanish tapas bar in New York City. You can stock it with all the best, most authentic ingredients, just-jerked from the rivers, streams, soil and seas of Spain. You can staff the joint with the best cooks, dragooned off the streets of the parta vieja. And you'll still never be close to the real thing. Because what your tapas bar needs -- really needs -- is three or four or eight OTHER tapas bars (or casual Spanish eateries within walking distance).
You can't really enjoy this kind of food in a vacuum. You need to graze -- or at least know that you can graze (should the urge arise), bouncing from one place to another, a mouthful or two of what's good here, a glass of tinto, a few mouthfuls of what they do well over there -- another glass of tinto and so on. In fact, the whole customer base has to re-groove to accommodate this notion. They'll have to accept the idea that a small can of tuna -- or clams -- can actually be better than fresh stuff. And worth about $150 bucks.
That the fat of Spanish acorn fed pigs is the stuff of which dreams are made. That there's nothing unusual about growing up with Goya, Dali, Bunuel, and Gaudi. That midnite is a normal time to sit down to dinner.
The best example of What They Do In Spain that We Can and Never Will Do is to be found in the Extebarri scene near the end of the show. Here, at a rustic pub in the mountains near St. Sebastian, grilling has been raised to unthinkable zen-like heights. Hand made charcoals. A separate fire for each individual order. Separate grills -- and custom designed and crafted pans and implements to best achieve perfection.
Ingredients of a quality undreamed of by most mortals. This, in a simple, neighborhood-looking joint with a smoky bar and a self-taught chef who grew up in the village. It's where the Adrias, Arzaks and Aduriz's go for their own pleasure -- high end comfort food.
Back before cable, if you took a baseball bat and smacked it upside a television set in the middle of a show, there'd be a black and white sputter, a flash -- and then white noise and static. That was what my first bite of grilled elvers was like there. And the grilled gambas. And just about everything else in that chilly, wood-smoke smelling kitchen. A jarring, flood of endorphins, then brain overload, and for a second, a blinding light. Momentarily, the synapses shorted out. Sensation returned in a warm, intensely pleasurable afterglow of flavor. It was a sensation that related directly to the experience of a few weeks before -- in Tokyo. At Sukibayashi Jiro. Two seemingly simple things done well -- as well as they can be done. In Tokyo: old school sushi.
In Spain, grilled stuff with a little salt and a light spritz of oil.
Nothing, as it turns out, could be better
I can charge you 150 euros for some King Oscar canned seafood should you miss Spain any time soon!
What is the name of the sparkiling white wine he was drinking with the father/daughter. I think it was something like "chocolit?" It had high acidity/low alcohol and was made from local grapes?
Does anyone know the name of the wine bottles they use in the Spain episode with the calcot and romesco sauce? Would love to order a few!
Thanks!
A.B. fan
Scott: The bottle is a porron
Joseph, are you talking abut Can Paixano? I looove that place, everyone packed in like sardines drinking cheap and delicious cava!
i heard the phrase 'coated in edible clay' during this episode. does anyone know what this was? what is it made of? i would like to research this further and don'tknow where to begin, but as a potter, i am intrigued.
Thanks
Without a doubt, the Spain episode speaks to me in a way I cant describe. The expressions on Tony's face and the unscripted emotion is refreshing. As a kid, I spent summers in Provence (when are you doing that show?), I was able to live that excitment like Tony did.
Tony gets it. "It", what Americans (I'm one too) dont get, passion. Doing 1 thing and doing it prefectly, every time. It's passion for the craft, In the states it's passion for success. We, as a country need to take a lesson from the rest of the world.
Tony, thank you for what you do. I spent 15 years working in kitchens and your honesty and no BS approach is appreicated. Dont ever stop.
...that's what i'm talking about...so what's "better"?...fly the stuff in from where ever...fake the atmosphere, or create our own local foodie experience?...kinda a trick question...
I was lucky enough to live in Madrid for a year during university. Prior to then, in Heidelberg and Paris, where I maintained vegetarianism. Not possible in Madrid. Everything smelled and tasted so good that I gave up 12 years of avoiding meat, and haven't looked back. It's that good.
I am a 58 year old guy that lost his job, and was really depressed after many week of sitting at home going broke. I discovered "No Reservations", and have been recording them all. I make popcorn and watch the shows all day long. I watch the great ones several times. I can no longer afford to travel, and eat great food, but thanks to your really cool show, I no longer give a damn.
good
karınca yumurtası, tala, tala yağı, karınca yumurtası satış
Anthony B. why eating barracuda in the Caribbean is bad: Ciguatera is caused by the consumption of subtropical and tropical marine finfish (ie barracuda) which have accumulated naturally occurring dinoflagellate toxins through their diet. The symptoms of Ciguatera poisoning are paresthesias and weakness and can persist in varying severity for weeks to months.
Oh the calcots...that is my version of "food porn". I need them in my life. For some reason I can think of nothing better than draping those onions into my mouth!
Your comments on Spain,On the Road Adgain (appearing in EaterSF) aside from your normal uncontrolled crudity were at best an example of your real "Envy." Triggered by the friendship among the four leads and the sheer joy (absent cynicism) of their shared experience seems to have oversome your ability to see that documentary for what it was. Too bad.
Anthony you're ability to craft a metaphor makes me misanthropic and deeply envious! Just started reading your writing recently, absolutely love it. Welcome to the pantheon of television celebrities that I'm thoroughly captivated by, it's all you and Penn Jilette.
It sounds like, Spain and it's restaurant owners are great at marketing. The theatrics of cooking have overtaken the essence of food as SUSTENANCE. Taste all you want, you will die without substance.
At the restaurant Etxebarri ...does anyone know the name of the type of chorizo (something like chistodo??) that the chef was grilling?? I have been trying to find out...thanks!!
I’m catalan and I’m living in North Florida. Watching your show you made me miss our culinary culture. I used to go to l’Espinaller. I can not wait to come back to BCN, I’ll be few days in October. Thank you Anthony!
network programming for yet another episode of No-res. Having given up smoking waaaay before "Tone" yet lacking his Dean Martinesh looks I finally realize that I do not have the "buds" of future man boobs as I shockingly observed Tony displaying in a re-run. Irreverence begets the same but I think this show and Tones style are probably the best show on television. Well, back to making cheese. Be well all. Michael
Watching the San Sebastian show again. A lifetime dream of mine was to visit there, after knowing Arnoud Etchemendy -sheepherder extrodinnaire- and eating his food. This episode kills me with the travel bug.
Thanks again to Tony for this wonderful show.
Ferran, is a chef/owner of the three Michelin starred El Bulli, the hardest to reserve, restaurant table in the world. He's a national hero, an international superstar in
Tagging along at Quimet and Quimet, shoveling in the tapas with a big smile on his face. Out in the country, with a silly red bib, a blissed-out expression, sucking down the calcots and the red wine like it was his last meal on earth.
If we can find that in Spain, we just might be sold on spending that wad of cash to go fumble our way through a language and experience some jamon Heaven.
wow, ur show is always amazing, spain,wait for me
Spain this summer and it was by far the best food we have experienced during our years of travel. Tony you are absolutely fab, we really have enjoyed all your shows and books!! M.
am so supremely jealous I could SPIT. Seething with envy I am........... Once again, your writing has made me drool. I. Need. Grilled. Pork. Now.
wonderful seafood delights in a can in Manhattan or online and what was the name of those spanish wine gl&%$ decanter type deals you drank out of. Fantastic.
began to lose runescape money their alreadyrunescape money tentative grips on reality. One scene after another, a glimpse here, a face in the crowd there, lurking
I love the post. The information about Spain restaurants are really useful.