The fire went out early again last night. Not even embers going when I woke up at 3AM. It's cold and drafty at night, up here on Phupadeng, and stuck without kindling, I ended up burning my briefing material, page by page--in ascending order of importance--as my situation became more desperate and the wood finally caught fire. I now have no idea what I'm doing tomorrow. But after dragging my bed around directly in front of the narrow column of heat coming from the fireplace, and burying myself under three quilts, I was toasty warm and slept like the dead.
After a breakfast of chicken, grilled between splints of bamboo, and an egg omelette, a soup of wild mushrooms and greens--and of course, sticky rice and fiery chili paste, we headed out into the mountains to visit a rice farmer and family, catch some swallows and have a meal.All quite wonderful--as you'll see on the show. Just about anywhere you point your camera in Laos, you see something beautiful and extraordinary. It's a mountainous landscape, thickly forested with tall bamboo, palms, fir and pine trees, impossibly vertical karsks, remote villages and few paved roads. Most mornings, it is covered with storybook mists. It's one of the few countries on Earth still barely touched by Western chains. There are No McDonalds. No Starbucks. No KFCs. Anywhere. Even in the sleepy capitol city of Vientiane. The food is spicy and mostly delicious and just about everyone we speak to is warm, generous and remarkably open about their lives, their hopes, their joys and their often considerable pain.
So little is known about this country. Less, I suspect, is known about the secret war here. Having had the bad luck to be a weak, neutral neighbor of Vietnam, Laos found itself, from 1962 until 1975, on the receiving end of more bombs than all the bombs dropped on all of Germany and Japan in all of World War Two. The equivalent of a bombing mission every nine minutes, 24 hours a day, for TEN YEARS. Pilots returning from bombing runs in North Vietnam, often dumped whatever extras they had on Laos on the way home. There were--unlike Vietnam--no rules of engagement. As supposedly, we weren't even there. About 30% of those bombs were "cluster" munitions. And about 30% of their cute, attractive-to-kids bomblets are still lying, undetonated, around rural Laos, waiting for farmers to find them--often setting them off in the process. About a hundred people a year--most of whom weren't even alive during the conflict--still die from unexploded ordinance. Many more lose limbs. We went out with a bomb disposal unit and saw for ourselves.
Much later:
The shoot is done and, fortified with "lao-lao", the local moonshine and a brief investigation of local herbs and flora (or is that fauna?), Zach, Todd and I appropriate the three rented production motorbikes--leaving the rest of the crew to drive home in the van. We tear ass across the Lao countryside, free, free, FREE and deliriously happy. Through dusty Hmong villages, past brown, fallow rice paddies, hump-backed bulls, black pigs, thatched roof homes on stilts, misty mountains, the mysterious Plain of Jars, dodging the occasional water buffalo, sometimes riding three abreast, but usually falling back into our own solitary, tripped out zones--our own individual road movies. Laos smells of wood smoke, earth, mint, lemongrass, deep forest, fermented fish (paa-dek)--and the edge.
Tomorrow, it's a 9 hour road trip across country to Luang Prabang where I am assured of a hot shower of excellent quality--And the possibility of mini-bar.
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Interesting post ToM. You said, it uses and alters the shot material of Brando without his consent or creative consultation. That might be somewhat difficult due to Brandos being dead.
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sharing for thanks.. i wish the successfrom now on writing..
cool idea thanks i'll watch some films for it.
thanks you
thanks you very nice
thanks you
thanks beybi
turkchat
Had a great time meeting with you in NY...
See ya soon,
John Denner
http://www.JohnDennerRocks.com
Anthony, great fan of your show, and even a bigger fan now that you went to Laos and gave me a glimpse of the lives my parents left behind. Just saw your show last night, and you really spoke to me when you mentioned an exerpt of the situation with many Hmong still hiding and fending for their lives in teh jungles of Laos.
I thank you for your courage to talk about this issue as most of the world wants to forget the secret war and probably hopes the Hmong refugees will disappear so the issue will go unspoken. When you get a chance to come to MN, please look me up and we'll share our exotic Hmong food, brought from the mountains of Laos.
Take care, and much appreciation!
Thanks for this article turnip. My blog was hacked and am currently hiring a guy to recover it. Ill use your advise to prevent from the same happening in future.
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first I congratulate for your site, I have enjoyed your site in a general look. I wish for continuance of your success
Thanks Mr. Bourdain for a brief eposide of Lao. I wish I could went there with you so I can show how to really drink and eat some good Lao Food and BBQ Lao Style ;)
I am Lao and looking forward to go back to visit my never seen before family memebers of my late father... just need the funds...
your website very quality congurutations
Hi Tony (and fans of the show)
The wife and I have just made the slightly harrowing 36 hour journey from Savannakhet (in central Lao) to Saigon. Thanks to some wacky coincidence the tellie in our guesthouse was showing this episode. Let me give you big props for how you covered this beautiful place. It's people, gorgeous cuisine, beautiful countryside and its murky murderous past. What a trip traveling through this part of the world is. Gets me thinking about voyeuristic nature of travel - seeking pleasure and finite experience while the roll on with their lives - is a tough, odd and of course enjoyable thing.Thanks for your poise and intelligence.
I raise a bai hoi to you
Linds
klip, klip izle
I thank you for your courage to talk about this issue as most of the world wants to forget the secret war and probably hopes the Hmong refugees will disappear so the issue will go unspoken
Tony, thank you very much for taking us to Laos and showing us the beauty and tragedy of it all. We loved the music from that episode. Who was it?
first I congratulate for your site, I have enjoyed your site in a general look. I wish for continuance of your success
The Alliance is calling on the California Air Resource Board to request immediate dismissal of the case.
Yes that is a Laotion name. After reading your notes from Laos, I have to say that I only slightly feel better. We were so excited to see your show on Laos; for you to explore its rich culture, like every other place you have visited. By the end of the show, our excitement turned to disappointment and anguish. You focused on the negative and showed this country like a beaten old rag. There is great beauty there in the people, the land and culture and you really missed the mark! Please go back and do it right. If you need a hand John would be happy to be your Laotion, English speaking guide who will make sure you are exposed to the true culture of his country.
Oh, Apricotica, I am gravely depressed. I also had these dreams. Alas, woe is me. I suppose I will just have to hope that my own blog will one day achieve fame and celebrity and I too will have readers to ignore. For now, anyone interested in Caribbean food, Trinidad and Tobago in particular? I need some readers for my plan to work....
I know(hope) that you're probably just joking around with Nari in the beginning of the Vancouver episode but you really need to take it down a notch.
There is great beauty there in the people, the land and culture and you really missed the mark! Please go back and do it right. If you need a hand John