Anthony Bourdain's Blog

Without Pyramids

By Anthony Bourdain on August 22, 2008 9:52 AM | Permalink | 149 Comments

There's a marvelous scene in "Lawrence of Arabia" where Peter O'Toole, playing T.E. Lawrence, looks out at the vast, empty desert and says something like, " I like the desert. It's ... clean." And I've always admired that particular breed of slightly potty Englishmen -- the Arabists, cartographers, explorers, spies, scholars and mischief-makers--who fell in love with the 360 degree vistas of sand and sky they found in the Middle East. I saw that same love up close in the face of our Bedouin guide, who spends, he said, most of his time out there, roaring around in 4x4 vehicles with his buddies, sleeping under the stars, answerable to no one.

And I was happiest during my stay in Egypt sitting under those same stars, a fire crackling and throwing off sparks nearby, belly full of roast lamb, surrounded -- as far as the eye could see -- by nothing but the dark rises of an ocean of sand. But Cairo was another matter.Egyptians are surprisingly friendly towards Americans. One hears "Hello!" and "Welcome!" from passing strangers all the time. And there's something truly wonderful about the drivers in this unbelievably crowded and unruly city. Though there are precious few traffic lights, somehow cars move at a good clip through the bumper to bumper streets. There's apparently a language of car horns -- coded beeps, taps and honks -- containing a fairly vast vocabulary of implications. Cars and pedestrians intermingle in impossible to perceive patterns and yet keep moving. Parking in the narrow, dog-leg back streets of Cairo is a mysterious and cooperative effort often involving driving backwards for great distances. Pythagorus would have been dazzled by the way eight or ten cars move forward or backward to allow one car in or out.

There's those pyramids. Though I never saw them except as shapes, seen through the haze from the window of a passing car.

I was not at ease in Cairo. It wasn't the gun-packing security types we were required to have along at all times. They were nice enough. And our fixer was a great guy. It was the Egyptian standard breakfast of "ful". And the fact that the tourism types didn't want us to see it. (See Rennik Soholt's excellent entry on "The Crew's Blog" to get the backstory on how we managed to actually get that scene). Ful (pronounced "fool") is a bowl or plate of mashed or semi-mashed fava beans which have been cooked in a copper pot -- usually with onions and some garlic -- and served with a healthy dose of olive oil. You eat it with flatbread. A LOT of bread -- usually a big stack which you use to sop up every bit. It's affectionately referred to as a "stone in the stomach". And they mean that in a good way.

Since pharonic times, the poor and working poor have filled up on the stuff as pretty much their principal meal of the day. If you're doing well for yourself, you can get a chopped, hard-cooked egg on top. And some pickled vegetables on the side. Problem is, very few Egyptians are doing well. In fact, most are living on or way below the poverty line. That bread is often the greater part of breakfast lunch AND dinner. And bread, recently, has doubled in price (with the rising cost of flour worldwide). Price supported bakeries, run (ominously) by the army, have been forced to ration, cutting their hours drastically.

The government, such as it is, is of the kind where enormous pictures of a Much Younger Looking Than He's Been in Years Fearless Leader are everywhere. Members of the opposition tend to get arrested just before elections. So Egypt felt like an inappropriate place to be doing a "food" show. Frankly, I didn't feel up to the job. When I found myself on a felucca, shooting a "majestic" waterborne scene on the Nile, and ten minutes out, the mast snapped off under a bridge, it seemed a perfect metaphor for the entire dubious enterprise. We limped around for an additional hour or so, the producer trying in vain to make the best of things, hoping, I imagine, that the audience would be oblivious to the huge, dangling spar, the sagging, sorry-ass sail, the fact that we were limping along like a gimped seagull.

Maybe it's that I particularly like Egyptians and wish the best for them. That our stunted sailboat seemed a metaphor for the hopes and dreams of the many good hearted people I met. Or maybe it was because Egypt was the last episode of season four, and I was just really, really homesick.

In any case, we're well into season five as I write this from Mexico City. I'm down here with my friend Carlos, the chef of Les Halles, and tomorrow, we head out for Puebla to meet his parents, sit down for a big Llaguna family meal. It'll be nice to see where the guy who worked by my side and who now has the job I once had comes from. It's a happier situation for sure. In every cantina, pulqueria, fonda we've visited, there's music. All the songs are very sad -- yet Mexicans seem always to find the beauty, the irony -- and even the humor in often hopeless situations -- and sing about them.

A short, sweet-faced, matronly woman made me quesadillas of fresh cheese and zucchini blossoms in the street today. The fillings cooked inside blue corn tortillas which she made by hand in front of me. They puffed and blistered on the hot metal . As she proudly presented me with the finished product, folding the quesadilla with a final squeeze and passing it to me with her hands, I noticed her fingers were dusted with indigo colored corn flour.

They were beautiful.

 

Tags: blog , bourdain blog , anthony bourdain , anthony bourdains blog , cairo , egypt , desert , crew blog , rennik , tony bourdain , mexico , mexico city , season four , season five , no reservations , travel channel , tv show , series

149 Comments

  1. 1
    Sues is not Martha - August 22 2008 @ 10:44 am "Lawrence of Arabia" makes me want to visit Egypt more than anything. And Mexico City pretty much has the best food in the world. Enjoy!!
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    Milena - August 22 2008 @ 11:05 am What a beautiful post. And the touch of melancholy? it snagged me deep. Likewise for the plight of the Egyptians you so eloquently describe. I hope you get soon to wherever home is. You sound like you need the anchor of the familiar right about now. For the moment, enjoy Mexico. It is a wonderful country (not mine but wonderful nonetheless).
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    alicia - August 22 2008 @ 11:07 am i can't believe it's already the end of season 4. damn you bourdain! now what am i going to do on monday nights...watch "The Hills".....?!
  4. 4
    David J Rust - August 22 2008 @ 11:11 am I wonder if it is possible for the average traveler to experience the kind of Bedouin guide and life-under-the-stars you describe? To be honest, that does sound like exactly the sort of trip I would want to experience, far beyond anything save -perhaps- for the Valley of the Kings. I look forward to Season Five, Tony. Thank you! Yours, Dave
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    Brett - August 22 2008 @ 12:58 pm Are you doing an episode on this trip to Mexico with Carlos, or just traveling for fun? Either way, sounds like a wonderful trip. I'm jealous of those squash blossom quesadillas... Can't wait to see the Egypt episode. And I agree with the previous poster that the seasons are too short... can't get enough of Tony!
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    Ursula - August 22 2008 @ 12:58 pm I'm conflicted about Egypt. I recently watched a program about The Koran which quoted a ridiculously high number of women who suffer through genital mutilation. One man on the program even said their country doesn't see the immorality of the West b/c of this practice. I suppose if men had most of their penis cut off, they'd be less likely to cheat as well. But what do I know, I'm a nonreligious Westerner who still has her clitoris. As much as I want to idealize the ancient in Egypt, I can't. Thanks for ending the season with such a bad taste in my mouth--like eating a crabapple when you want a cherry. Mexico, on the other hand, sounds great right now. I miss Guadalajara's foggy mornings and wild dogs--not to mention the goat BBQ.
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    Peter - August 22 2008 @ 1:15 pm Tony! After Egypt there's a "making of" show and that's it? Nine measley trips? Actually, eight, I guess. What's up, Travel Channel? Each season we get fewer and fewer shows. Give Tony the money and let him do an extra 3 shows, please. He's the only reason to even watch your channel.
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    Jen - August 22 2008 @ 1:35 pm The almost industrious boisterousness and unexpected (to me, at least) openness of the Egyptians is a sobering thing. There's an odd attitude of impermanence to their ancient culture. Tomorrow will be different. This was a gorgeous post. I want to know more. Can't wait to see the episode.
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    Jess - August 22 2008 @ 1:40 pm chills. great post.
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    Eugenia - August 22 2008 @ 2:34 pm Your writing has been really fantastic lately -- such excellent images, thank you! Lawrence, with his obsessions of what was clean and what was not, is an unusual reference to see in a food blog. Not that there's anything wrong with that. It works particularly well with the contrast of being ill at ease in Egypt, 'cuz his problem, too, was men and the ways of the populated world.
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    Patricio - August 22 2008 @ 2:51 pm Anthony, Its great how you describe Egypt, when people talks abpout this place always sound much more romantic, magnificent that what you see. I hope you can have a great time in Mexico City, my city, and hopefully I'll be here and there in many famous places, any chance I catch you for a picture. By the way, if you have the chance, check out the travel channel here, were still having the lebannon episode and no sign of new ones soon :-( Your loyal server Patricio Uribe
  12. 12
    Edith - August 22 2008 @ 4:05 pm Natural talent. You are truly enjoyed!!
  13. 13
    andy - August 22 2008 @ 5:20 pm Ooooh season 5! Can't wait! I absolutely loved this season. Japan and Spain were my favorites. Spain made me want to check out kayak and book a flight and hotel asap. I know you did Belfast, but I would love to see you in Galway or Dublin. I have turned pretty much everyone I know, on to your show. Even my wife's parents, who speak little English, love the show. They say that the way you narrate each show, makes it even more special. Look forward to Mexico City and the other cities you will venture to! Love it! Andy TravelByAndy.com
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    Caleb - August 22 2008 @ 5:46 pm Im already excited about the egyptian episode, makes me look forward to Monday. You should come to Corpus Christi here in Texas. You have to dig really dip to find its beauty, but its there. We do have good tacos and beer though.
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    N. Hubbell - August 22 2008 @ 8:37 pm In a television world wrought with uninteresting wieners and talentless bafoons, Tony raises the bar. As I'm sure he despises listening to anyone tout his amazingness, I'll skip that part, but point made. Love the show, and i hope to one day to have your job... after you're done with it and all.
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    AngryStonedHamster - August 22 2008 @ 8:43 pm Mexico again? drink some more of that bathtub slime hooch! that was quality television from your food network show.
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    Lucile - August 22 2008 @ 10:06 pm I really really really love your program!!!! I watch it every day, evening and night.. Greetings from the Netherlands
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    Misselle - August 23 2008 @ 12:57 am Oh yay! My favorite episode of a Cook's Tour was when you went to Mexico with your staff from Les Halles. I am glad that you get to revisit it in a.... less censored environment than what Food Network provided you with. Egypt sounds fascinating, but sad. I can't wait to see your take on it.
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    Bryan - August 23 2008 @ 12:36 pm Exactly. I was there only once in 2006 and this is what I wrote down about cabdrivers and my experience in a cab. I wonder if Tony had the same feelings... Cabdrivers. We all have pictures in our minds eye when we think of a typical cabbie. In places like Philadelphia and New York, one rarely experiences anything really exciting. You may occasionally meet that someone who delights, the both of you chasing down a cab in the rain, only to succumb at the last minute to sharing it. How romantic. But that’s about it. The cabbie might have a lead foot, but really, so do most. The driver may be rude, dirty, and smell like a festering three-day-old Italian hoagie. Or the driver may be a clean-cut middle-aged man who keeps his workplace spotless and with an ever present hint of jasmine. The cabbies in Cairo are a different breed. You still get that hint of hoagie upon entering the vehicle; however once you sit down and close the door it’s danger time. Knowing that more people are killed on the roads in Egypt then any other country in the world surely wasn’t racing through my mind as we approached the cabs at the hotel. It was the second night, and four of us hoped in a cab at the Ramses Hilton and merged into the feeding frenzy that is high-time traffic in downtown Cairo. The others in our group were behind us in hot pursuit. We where heading for dinner on a floating three story restaurant on the Nile. Now I drive fast, at times. But these guys think it’s some sort of triumph. They would take turns p&%$ing each other and surely where loving every minute. I nonchalantly noticed that when our cab got side by side with the other, they appeared to be in some sort of race to the finish. Both cabbies had their mouths open laughing and obviously trash talking as to whose ‘Matchbox’ was faster. Shouldn’t these guys be paying attention more to the road? The cabbies seem to be conspiring against us. Let’s scare the Americans. It’s fun. They scream and curse, it’s a beautiful thing. I started to think that was the whole point. We where in some Twilight Zone were you pay a cabbie for a joyride. Getting to the destination is a byproduct. And of course, no joyride would be true unless you drive with your lights off. Yes that’s off. Maybe the parking lights work. That’s good enough. Speed limit? What’s that? I calculated that we were at times driving about 80 in swarming traffic, cars slamming on their brakes only inches in front of us, and our driver would somehow swerve into another imaginary lane and go around. I am sitting in the middle back seat contemplating what to do once we slam straight on into another vehicle. I was guessing I would go catapulting through the front windshield to meet my demise. That would hurt. Although, if we were to sustain a side collision, I had two fellow death wishers on either side to cushion the impact. I was like a four year old. Laughter was all the worked. Nervous albeit. I counted sometimes four lanes or was it five, or maybe six lanes. Did it matter? Every driver laying on his or her horn like some sort of Morse code. Did I mention they where driving with their lights off? But strangely it worked. I suppose the thought is that too much light equals too much glare. Well that’s what I came up with. The only conversation on that ride was the occasional ‘holy ****’ or the sound of exhaling as you hold your breath. The occasional ox-cart or pedestrian on bicycle would be meandering down the centerline of the road coming towards us. It was madness. It was the study in how traffic can be like some sort of demonic orchestral symphony. Everyone playing a part. Everyone trusting everyone else to do it right. The real fun is when the cabdriver decided to cross the median and go the opposite direction into oncoming traffic. Buses packed tight with people, trucks stacked way over weight with goods and car after car would converge at intersections pointing in every direction found on a comp&%$. But nothing seemed to happen. Now, if only the folks of Disney’s magical ‘Imagineering’ department could reproduce this in South Florida. They would make millions. They could call it ‘Crash Course Cairo.’ Why not? It would be at the cutting edge of excitement rides. Who needs a roller coaster when you can pack your buddies in a Peugeot and drive the opposite way on a one-way street in the dark? Genius.
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    Tom Sanchez - August 23 2008 @ 1:09 pm Great writing Tony!!! DISFRUTA MEXICO!!!! VIVA MEXICO!!!
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    Ana Cristina - August 23 2008 @ 3:27 pm I was sad to read that this season is coming to an end, but happy to hear you're already hard at work on the next. Can't wait to see the new stuff. Enjoy your time in Mexico and I hope you get to see your family soon! :-)
  22. 22
    Jaine - August 23 2008 @ 4:06 pm I love your show a lot.... I'm excited to see this one - Egypt. Seems one of a kind. :-)
  23. 23
    Sara GH - August 23 2008 @ 4:34 pm I absolutely loved Egypt when I was there. I went in high school, over ten years ago, and remember it as being a huge culture shock and nothing like the US!
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    TeacherLady - August 23 2008 @ 5:25 pm Cairo taught me a few things... Never to complain again about bad driving ANYWHERE, don't smile politely at cops with the machine guns because they respond with nothing less than creepiness, and take toilet paper with you wherever you go. My ancestors were bedouin (and not that far back) and I don't care to experience what they told me of the use of sand in place of Charmin. However, Cairo retains a lot of its history, unlike my own home in the Emirates which has turned into a shiny Disneyland interpretation of its former self.
  25. 25
    AV Flox - August 23 2008 @ 5:59 pm Are you going to be at Gaston's La Mar opening? You should. I just have to see you.
  26. 26
    Diane - August 23 2008 @ 11:38 pm I WILL be clearing my DVR for Season Five, just so you know. Your program makes me look forward to Monday nights.
  27. 27
    Aaron Kagan - August 24 2008 @ 1:22 am The rising flour costs bring to mind the true meaning of the words sustainability. It's often lumped in with other food fad buzz words like "local" and "organic," but the implications are anything but novel: if it's not sustainable, you can't keep doing it. Rising food costs are one of many symptoms we're gonna see a whole lot more of. The solution? More blue corn tortillas, fewer meals at Les Halles. www.teaandfood.blogspot.com
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    Ksenia - August 24 2008 @ 2:14 pm Anthony! I just wanted to say that i am so impressed of you and your show! I ve seen it few days ago the first time. and i desided to find something about you in internet and say some good words to you! Thanks a lot! you are so great! You have to come to Russia!Here in Moscow i am photo producer. So i know all the most interesting places and people! I will organise your trip here :) stay cool! Ksenia Oganesian
  29. 29
    Laura Kelley - August 24 2008 @ 3:00 pm "Only two kinds of creature get fun in the desert: Bedouins and gods, and you're neither. Take it from me, for ordinary men, it's a burning, fiery furnace". "No, Dryden, it's going to be fun". and the strike of a match becomes the rising sun. . . A great movie to begin your Egypt blog-post with. My own experiences in Egypt include Nile cruises, long walks in the August heat to Abu Simbel, the artisan tombs, and lots of would-be guides claiming to know me from past lifetimes. You should have brought along a blonde to trade for 50 camels - I confess that was sorely tempted at least twice, but reason prevailed over greed and the desire to be free from my whining companion and I continued happy but a bit hampered. We crawled deep into the belly of one of the great pyramids only to have the all the lights go off when we were inside - leaving us in a stagnant pitch darkness. Haven't seen the episode yet, but the blog gives Egyptian food a bad name just because ful is - well, aw-ful. There are wonderful roast meats and rice dishes, though that are delicious. Love your show - especially the urban episodes. You seem to have the city-mojo working fine. Keep up the good shows - and show more ethnic food! LMK
  30. 30
    Wilma de Soto - August 24 2008 @ 3:27 pm Season four has been great and has p&%$ed by as quickly as the summer season. I have a lot of Eygptian students at my school; mainly Christians. I wonder did Tony note any religious prejudice while there. Nice work this season; even the Travel with Tony episode I found to be delightful. Hopefully Tony will get round to doing a show idea I sent in: The contrast between the Dominican Republic and Haiti who share Hispañola. Eagerly looking forward to Season Five, until stay safe and healthy. -Wilmita
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    ALEX RAMONE - August 24 2008 @ 5:32 pm Hola Anthony: Acabo de leer tu libro "MALOS TRAGOS". Soy un jefe de cocina español, de Barcelona. tu libro me ha enganchado desde elprimer momento ya que comparto casi todo lo que en él explicas. Las horas y horas de esfuerzo que muchas veces no se ven recompensadas y el reconocimiento de una clientela que a veces és demasiado petulante. La manera que tratas el tema de Ferran (es de otro planeta) y todo en general. Felicidades`por el libro y por los otros dos (confesiones y viajes). Por cierto también soy un gran fan de THE RAMONES HEY HO LET'S GO!!!!!!!!
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    june-baby - August 24 2008 @ 7:29 pm WTF, why does season four have to end so soon. Oh well re-runs will be apon us now. Season five can not come soon enough I will be waiting with anticipation. Looking forward to Monday night for the Egypt episode looks like a another good show. I loved season four my favorites have to be Japan and Spain (major food porn in those two episodes). Tony, another great blog from you. Sounds like you are having a great time with Carlos. It's nice to see Carlos in an episode of NR. Have fun in Mexico City. Travel safe Tony and the NR Crew.
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    Kathy - August 24 2008 @ 8:30 pm Hi Tony, what was the name of your guide in Egypt? He looks like the guide that did our tour group in 2006. His name is Amr.
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    karla - August 24 2008 @ 8:55 pm Omg! whoa everything sounds like so wonderful! readin' it makes me wanna go there (:... And i can't believe u r in here! i want to meet u so bad!haha well.. i just wanted to say that i definitely love your show! you're amazing! and so funny :D but i'm really fascinated about ur knowledge of almost everything! hahaha i sound like so excited, it's just that i'm a big fan and i'm just 14 so hahahah.. Hope u've had an amazing time in Mexico! keep on rockin lots of love from Veracruz, Mexico. Karla
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    Arturo - August 24 2008 @ 9:59 pm Hey Tony! I love you show! I´ve been in Egypt, and it´s amazing, isn´t it? I can´t believe that you´re in Mexico City... where I live! Enjoy Mexican food! ¡Salud! Arturo.
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    mallory elise - August 24 2008 @ 11:50 pm Mr. Bently: "what is it exactly that draws you to the dessert, Major Lawrence?" Lawrence: "It's clean" glad you didn't fall into a pit of quick sand like the poor little boy, which sadly i always laugh at, and then feel really badly afterward for doing so.
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    AS - August 25 2008 @ 12:49 am Anthony, you need to do Buffalo.
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    Dorina - August 25 2008 @ 7:19 am Hey Tony! Just wanted to say I love No Reservations. Though here in Hungary it's quite difficult to find out which series are going on. But I REALLY admire that places where you travel and people you meet, and I REALLY want you to come to Hungary! :) Take care in Mexico City, Dorina
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    Cristina - August 25 2008 @ 10:56 am There's something interesting abt Egypt which makes me want to visit it but also avoid it. I've been fascinated by the pyramids for a while (make it 15 yrs or so) but after reading abt terrorist attacks and other problems the country faces I'm reluctant to go. Poverty isn't appealing either unfortunately
  40. 40
    Sara G. - August 25 2008 @ 11:24 am apropos of nothing... did you see that Rocco DiSpirito will be in the cast of the next season of Dancing with the Stars? I thought you'd appreciate that little gossip tidbit. WTF?
  41. 41
    Erica - August 25 2008 @ 12:35 pm Okay, so not relevant to the post but, Rocco DiSpirito is doing Dancing with the Stars. WTF?
  42. 42
    kok hong - August 25 2008 @ 1:02 pm hi Anthony, great story'
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    Julia` - August 25 2008 @ 1:21 pm I've become a huge fan of yours of late and I have to tell you I've been looking forward to this episode and your thoughts on it since I first heard you'd be doing Egypt. I spent 4 months living and studying in Cairo and traveling the Middle East and I absolutely fell in love with the entire region, but Egypt and the Egyptians will forever have a special place in my heart. I think you captured it perfectly with your words in this blog and I'm excited to see the show tonight. The commercial alone brought tears to my eyes along with very fond memories as you guys shot the young boys following you and waving to you in the street. Its such a shame that Egypt's government has brought it as low as it is today, but its amazing that the people still at least try to just get through every day with a smile on their face and still show the world the hospitality they're known for. Thank you for doing such a great job of trying to show this!
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    kjf - August 25 2008 @ 3:28 pm Tony, Could have sworn I read in one of your posts about an upcoming Venice episode, no?
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    EB - August 25 2008 @ 4:08 pm What a heartfelt post. Thanks for giving us the up-front truth and not some white-washed, romanticized version of whatever that truth might be on any other show. You sound like the homesickness subsided and that you're glad to be on the road again. Mexico City ain't a bad place to fill the stomach and the heart. can't wait to see it. EB
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    Kim Sanders - August 25 2008 @ 6:17 pm FINALLY, Tony's in Egypt! Took you long enough, Mr. Bourdain! My very favorite place in all the world, my favorite people in all the world. In my experience, Egyptians are the most hospitable, welcoming, warm people I've ever met. A janitor at Cairo Airport greets you with "welcome home". And Egyptian food is terrific - NOBODY in my last tour will touch store-bought pita bread again after having it fresh from the oven and hand made. Yes, Cairo's insane - and how they manage to make all that traffic actually work never ceases to amaze me. Luxor is my favorite city, and much less stressful than Cairo. Can't wait to go back!
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    Kate in the NW - August 25 2008 @ 6:50 pm On the off chance that someone with any influence over Tony reads this, I submit a humble request... Since we're getting a short (but, IMHO, very high-quality) season, PLEASE WRITE TO US over the break! This website is my best excuse for procrastination, and I'd hate to have to find another one over the break. It wouldn't be as entertaining anyway, I'm pretty sure. And God forbid I actually become maximally productive...
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    Kim Sanders - August 25 2008 @ 7:24 pm Just a note for those of you who have commented about being nervous about visiting Egypt - we NEVER felt at all concerned for our safety on our last trip (Jan 2004). The Egyptians take the safety of their guests very seriously, and Mohammed, our security guy in Cairo was terrific. Very professional, very patient, but still personable.
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    Felix - August 25 2008 @ 9:46 pm Hey Tony, I'm a huge fan of your writing and your shows. I wish I could have your job! Anyways the real reason I wanted to comment on your blog is because I have a new location which would make an fantastic episode, The Dominican Republic. You could travel to Santo Domingo, Punta Cana, Boca Chica, Santiago, Bani and other wonderful places. I remember seeing you in an episode in Puerto Rico, but really the Dominican Republic is totally different in culture from them. Please take the time in considering going to the D.R. since we have some of the most amazing food, diversity of people, culture, music, and of course drinks! It is close to the US too. Thanks Tony, hopefully you will go one day soon and truly experience real Dominican culture. It will make one hell of an episode too Thanks again, Felix, NY-DR
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    CARMEN... not "karma" - August 25 2008 @ 10:07 pm Amazing... who else could imagine a show in Egypt WITHOUT PYRAMIDS! Only Tony. The video clip looks intersting until we reach the bite of "chibilsi"? I'm afraid revelations of intense fervor for the ethnic dish missed us... it ain't visible on Tony's face. Look again... but then, what do I know... I cancelled cable. by the way, try this on for relaxing : http://wemu.org/listen.php my alma matta
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    Jordan - August 25 2008 @ 11:07 pm Why doesn't Anthony go to Israel?
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    Thomas McIntyre - August 25 2008 @ 11:47 pm «…—Eh! bien, monsieur, reprit-il après un moment de silence, j’ai fait depuis la guerre en Allemagne, en Espagne, en Russie, en France; j’ai bien promené mon cadaver, je n’ai rien vu de semblable au désert…Ah! c’est que cela est bien beau. —Qu’y sentiez-vous? lui ai-je demandé. —Oh! cela ne se dit pas, jeune homme. D’ailleurs je ne regrette pas toujours mon bouquet de palmiers et ma panthère…il faut que je sois triste pour cela. Dans le désert, voyez-vous, il y a tout et il n’y a rien…—Mais encore expliquez-moi? —Eh! bien, reprit-il en laissant échapper un geste d’impatience, c’est Dieu sans les hommes»… “‘Well, sir,’ he resumed after a moment of silence, ‘since then I’ve been in wars in Germany, Spain, Russia and France; I’ve carted my carc&%$ all over, but I’ve never seen anything else like the desert…Oh, that is really beautiful.’ ‘What were your feelings there?’ I asked. ‘Oh, it can’t be expressed, young man. Anyway, I don’t miss my clump of palms and my leopard all the time…I have to be sad for that to happen. In the desert, you see, there’s everything and there’s nothing…’ ‘But can’t you explain it to me?’ ‘Well,’ he went on, with a gesture of impatience, ‘it’s God without people…’” —Honoré de Balzac, “A P&%$ion in the Desert,” translated by Stanley Appelbaum
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    Tammy - August 26 2008 @ 12:10 am "There's a party in my tummy... so yummy so yummy". Thank you Tony. Even my 2 year old was watching your show on Egypt after that little song...
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    tom - August 26 2008 @ 12:13 am Great ending of season four.The egypt episode was great.I think the best of the episode was camping into the desert and seeing nature.The desert somthing humans can not change,a open far endless ocean of sand ended by the sunset.A place where time stands still as the world changes,only nature herself can change such a thing.Well done tony work on season five.
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    popistoc - August 26 2008 @ 12:15 am Good show, the Eygypt one, I just watched it. Quit swearing on the damn shows, it's not cool. If you get to MN, shoot me an email, I cook for you and have you over. You' a good man, Anthony Bourdaine popistoc
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    Bill Weisse - August 26 2008 @ 12:42 am Tony, I love your show. I sorry you didn't have a better time in Egypt. Next month will be the 30 year anniversary of the mideast peace talks with Sadat, Begin and Carter, while The Grateful Dead played your pyramids sans tourists.It was awesome and the people were wonderful.By the third night the Bedouins came out of the desert to dance.Cairo is transforming but the desert is trasendental.
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    claire - August 26 2008 @ 12:46 am Interesting episode. Are there credits for the background music somewhere? I really like it. Thanks
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    Gene - August 26 2008 @ 1:10 am Mr Bourdain, thank you for visiting Egypt and pointing out how incredibly difficult life has become for the poor with the rising price of basic staples. Almost three decades of rule by Husni "La Vache Qui Rit" Mubarak has done little to improve the lives of anyone other than a charmed elite within Egyptian society. Having been to Egypt and having many Egyptian friends, I truly fear there's going to be a social explosion there, and if Egypt goes up then the entire future of the Arab world will be dramatically altered. One thing, have you considered visiting Turkey. You would love it - the people, the food (including all those bits of offal that you love), the history. Hopefully you will include Turkey as a show destination in the near future.
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    Hadley - August 26 2008 @ 1:11 am I loved the Egypt show, as always. However, I was a little disappointed about the lack of comment on women. You mentioned that the coffee shop was for men only, but I was just left with a lingering question about the place of women in Egypt overall. Perhaps the almost complete lack of women showing up in any of the shots answers my question.
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    Gayla - August 26 2008 @ 1:11 am I look forward to your show and maybe learning something new about another part of the world and having a chuckle at the same time. However, after the show from Egypt I found the subtle reference to killing the dinner not so subtle. Yes, I'm a soft minded American and yes, I do realize that there are people that still are required to kill the "fatted calf" so they can eat. I do not find it entertaining to watch.
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    Traci - August 26 2008 @ 1:16 am Thank goodness you quit smoking. I know, it's old news, but I was reminded on this show that you quit because I can tell by the weight that you've gained that it's a done deal. :) Yay! Yay for us, your fans, and Yay for your family and new daughter! You know what else, Tony B, thanks for doing these cool shows, like Saudi (Hello! Saudi!? How cool is THAT!) and Egypt. Wow! I have friends from both places, and it's always pretty much been implied that it's just not a tourist friendly place. So thanks for letting us see the countries, and the REAL people that live there. They're awesome people .... people that have many American friends who love them, and it's really nice to see their culture. :)
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    Tina G - August 26 2008 @ 2:16 am I've been loving your shows and watching religiously, all the while hoping you would visit the land of Egypt. I was honored to visit Cairo/Alexandria two years ago and found the people to be amazing in the constant shadow of their adversity. Friendly, sincere and willing to give you the shirt off their back if need be. Yes, I visited the pyramids, but enjoyed "old Cairo" and other tucked away places more with the tiny alleys and ancient cafe's. I'm sorry you didn't have a better time! The food, no matter what, was full of flavor and addictive. Hope you enjoyed it, too! I had to bring an Egyptian cookbook home so I could learn how to make it. Truly an incredible and enlightening place, and the best damn lamb I've ever had!
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    june-baby - August 26 2008 @ 2:59 am Wow season four ended with a bang loved the Egypt episode. Loved the Zimmern crack that Tony made in the begining of the episode. Now if someone would invent smellavision I would have been able to smell all of the spices in the market. All that traffic in Cairo how people get around must be an interesting feat. I really enjoyed this episode of NR, well done NR crew and Tony. It was nice to see Tracy back too. So what if Tony didn't go and see the Pryamids, we all know he's not into the touristy thing he wants to go where the locals go and there is nothing wrong with that. I agree with Kate in the NW, I hope Tony will blog during the break before season five starts, because it would be nice to hear what will be coming up in season five. I know Tony's a busy guy, but a nice hello now and then on his blog would be nice.
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    Hourany - August 26 2008 @ 3:10 am Thank you for trying the middle east. We aren't all monsters. I bow.
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    susan - August 26 2008 @ 4:24 am Tony, 38 years and you quit smoking??! What the....is that for real? I don't believe it, especially there in Egypt, you hookah whore..you smoking grits just seems right, you never see anyone smoking on TV anymore. Ahhh but I'm right there with you. Working hard in the corporate world traveling the nation as one of your alumni for the past eight years from big city to small crunchy towns munchin at every junction from street food to fine dining and the multitude of fine local seasonal farmers markets, with junk in my 43 foot trunk i've met the tattooed and yoganandas alike. Your nasty bits have enthralled me, given me a new high, filled with eco conscious, the crusty 24 hour set is always about location, location, location... From long lost spirits in the cocktail lounge, chefs seem to be as well, the new cocktail collaborators. What about the iconoclast chefs, gastropubs and hand pumped cask ales? Miso lager anyone? From a hotel on the roof of the world I thank you for your true and utter grit as a writer in Egypt and from everywhere else on earth. You are truly a world to discover. Thank you for real inspiration. Yours, Boullion
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    Laura from NYC - August 26 2008 @ 10:49 am I've been a huge fan of Anthony's for years. Does anyone know how to apply for a job to work for him? In any capacity.
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    Melissa - August 26 2008 @ 12:08 pm Love the show, but above all else, I LOVE your writing style. Extrememly talented author and thinker. Thanks Tony !!
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    Kim Sanders - August 26 2008 @ 12:14 pm Tony - there ARE ways to see the Pyramids & avoid hordes of tourists. 1 - go early, when the sites first open. 2 - go to Dashur, to see the Red Pyramid, which is the first true pyramid, and the Bent Pyramid, which still has most of its limestone casing. Dashur is on military land & has only recently been open to tourists, so most don't go there. We had the place to ourselves in 2004, and in the afternoon, yet. 3 - go to Saqqara (again, early is better) to see the Step Pyramid, which was the first (and also the first monumental stone structure in history). 4 - at Giza, go to the Pyramid of Menkaure (the small one), as most folks ignore it. Also at Giza, you MUST go see the Solar Boat - a 4,500 year old, GORGEOUS cedar boat, probably used to ferry Khufu's body to burial. And Tony, how can you not get a kick out of a structure built by a work group that called itself "the Drunkards of Menkaura"? Myself, I prefer temples to pyramids: Seti I's lovely temple at Abydos, the Temple of Isis on Philae Island at Aswan, and the many wonderful temples on both banks of the Nile at Luxor.
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    Disappointed - August 26 2008 @ 1:22 pm I completely understand that you did not want to be around caravans of tour busses with the herds of tourists scampering all around The Pyramids but enough is enough. I got it after the 10th time you said it. Which made me wonder, did you really not want to see The Pyramids or was it just the "cool thing to do"? I think your point would've had much more of an impact if it was more subtle, instead it reminded me of the kid in school who tried too hard to be cool that it made him look the opposite. In closing, like I said, I understand that you do not want to be just another person in a sea of tourists gawking at the most popular sights, but okay already... we get it.
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    Chris Giardini - August 26 2008 @ 3:20 pm I know this isnt directly to you but on the site i dont know if i am going mad or not but there is no mention to the eatery where you indulged in all of that meat. Since i will be traveling to egypt in janurary and want to eat there...check that i am dying to eat there. hopefully i will get a message back if not...if anybody finds the name of that place just post or send it to me a clgiardini@gmail.com...huge fan man and thanks for letting us experience you experinces right alon with you
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    GGrill - August 26 2008 @ 6:24 pm Nice to see "real food real people" again after the "celebrity food celebrity people" overdoses that were Spain and Tokyo. But I wonder why Egypt got off so easy when Greece was all but bagged-on for a solid hour? TB seemed to enjoy the food more in Greece, albeit begrudgingly. And given a choice between lamb over an open fire, Greek moonshine, a mandolin and handguns or goat in a barrel, pick-up-sticks and palm abuse, well... I guess I'll be returning to Greece long before I join the beduins. Honestly, if the whole beduin scene had taken place with some yokels in Yankdon, South Dakota, it would have been a joke.
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    MaDukes - August 26 2008 @ 7:00 pm Tony: Your face is utterly transparent. Obvious you were not comfortable in Egypt. Maybe your experience in Lebanon colored your visit. The kids were cute following their Pied Piper. Your writing gets better and better. Thanks
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    Tina Crumpacker - August 26 2008 @ 8:04 pm I caught Anthony's comment about quitting smoking. I have been restling with that demon on & off for years. I figured if ANTHONY BOURDAIN could do it, I certainly could. So I did, today.
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    smokey - August 26 2008 @ 8:20 pm As mentioned above, please write on your blog about what is happening in your life. We care. We need to know that you are still there, and working, and we will see you soon. Love.
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    Anne - August 27 2008 @ 12:09 am I went to Egypt last year. I completely understand the feeling you describe on this post. It was heartbreaking to see the level of poverty in Egypt, as much as the government and tour guides tried to keep it hidden from us. What surprised me the most about Egypt was that even with all the poverty and hardships these people face every day, they were always smiling, telling jokes, making the best of every circumstance, no matter how poor or how difficult things seemed to be for them. At a certain point in the trip were also stranded in the Nile. The boat got stuck on a sandpit. Two Egyptian fishermen saw what happened and without hesitation attempted to help. They tried relentlessly to pull the cruise ship with their humble and tiny fishing boat. It was obvious that it wouldn't work, but they kept trying, and trying for what seemed an absurd amount of time. It was as if they didn't think it was impossible. And that's what I saw every city I visited, every person I encountered, Egyptians are people who just keep on fighting no matter what. And I saw that in the Pyramids of Giza, the temples and monuments I was privileged to visit. These are not just kitschy touristy things to do or see, they are evidence of human beings who where able to defy gravity and time...they're the legacy of people who don't understand the meaning of "impossible". I'm still humbled by that.
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    docrhon - August 27 2008 @ 12:45 am You hit on some of the good, traditional and local food. The koshari, molakia and stuffed pigeon....yummy! But from my experience, Cairo doesn't smell good at all. It is polluted beyond belief and it is totally sexist. I know you did the Saudi show, featuring a muslim woman and that was great. It bothered me however that somehow you forget about women's rights. What do you stand for? Ratings?
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    lucas horton - August 27 2008 @ 12:58 am I just finished the Egypt show and shame on you for being too cool to visit the pyramids. I totally agree with you about skipping the tourist traps, but the pyramids transcend such a thing. It doesnt matter how many busses of people are there, they are almost worth the trip to Egypt alone. Barring Asia, I would bet I have been to more countries than you have (without getting paid for it too and im only 31). And as much as I loved Machu Picchu, the pyramids almost put it to shame...and you rode the f$#kin train there...not even man enough to hike the Inca trail. Whomever you have advising you is stupid. Additionally, my wife is from Romania, and I never questioned your observations, choices, or thoughts until I saw that episode. Originally, I chalked it up the the idiot who guided you there, but now i dont know anymore...and I realize you chose a bad time of year to visit Romania, but you missed the beauty anf history of the whole country. Vlad Dracul's Castle???? and you wouldnt see the pyramids??? I tries to find a more direct email route but it seems as if you might not be able to withstand much criticism.
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    Shelley - August 27 2008 @ 1:40 am Ignore the whiners here. I just wish there was a way the cameras could capture your view of the starry sky in the desert. Being in big-city suburbia, I sure do miss seeing stars.
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    Chef Scott Wallett Jr. - August 27 2008 @ 3:19 am Chef, Excellant show my friend. Eygpt loks absolutly amazing. Working all year without a vacation so far i would just love to go there and sit under the stars and just veg out for a week or so in the desert, cook myself some Lamb mmmmm. I could not believe the street in Cairo. it reminded me of the Discovery show about ants, lol, how they all move as one like you said the cars do. Eygpt is on my list of places to see, right behind Italy and Spain. thanks for another great season Chef. Looking forward to next Mondays show and see you cook.
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    Chris Wright - August 27 2008 @ 3:26 pm I watched the Egypt episode last night - It was great. I've been to Egypt/Cairo twice, most recently this past spring. I think you captured the essence of Cairo perfectly - especially the traffic. You can tell somebody about it, but you really have to experience it to understand just how insane it is. I was a bit disapointed that you didn't venture south to Luxor or Aswan. We found ate at some wonderful nubian places to eat that were off the beaten path. Again, great show, but now I'm hungry and where am I going to find a bowl of koshary in Maryland?
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    hama - August 27 2008 @ 4:51 pm Thank you so much for going to Egypt. I helped my father fulfill a life long dream and we father/daughter set off for 17 days. It was an incredible trip...my father wanted to ditch our 5 star hotels and stay with the farmers along the Nile. Hew was raised in a farming family from Michoacan, Mexico so I was not surprised. We were lucky - we went in 2004 when the economy was so bad. I made a point to eat everything and to really get to know every Egyptian I was in contact with. I let them all know how much I enjoyed visiting their country and how I would tell all my friends/acquaintances in the USA how wonderful I was treated. I was there during Ramadan which was an added bonus..happy people everywhere. My father and I spent a whole day wandering by ourselves in Old Cairo...rarely saw a tourist...eating pomegranetes, fresh dates - my father commented that he felt like he was in Mexico - beans,chiles, and bread similar to our tortillas. The food was excellent. I will never forget that wonderful trip to Egypt - I am dying to go back. Thank you Tony for another wonderful season from a lifelong fan of ALL your work. Todavia eres el jefe! Desfruta Mexico - tienes buena suerte! a northern california chicana....
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    Feisty Bourbon Girl - August 27 2008 @ 6:12 pm I was all ready to be mad at your for basically parroting back text you used in Monday night's show for your blog, when you go and hit me with that last paragraph. Darn you, how come I can't write like that? (I still think you should've gone to the pyramids though, in the show it came across like you were "too cool for school.")
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    Marilyn - August 27 2008 @ 11:16 pm I don't know, Tony. I think you did a heck of a job with what you were given. Bravo for yet another wonderful episode.
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    jessicachristina - August 28 2008 @ 12:46 am Empty desert and says something like, “ I like the desert. It’s … clean.” And I’ve always admired that particular breed of slightly potty Englishmen -- the Arabists,cartographers, explorers, spies, scholars and mischief-makers--who fell in love with the 360 degree vistas of sand and sky they found in the Middle East Egyptians are surprisingly friendly towards Americans. I particularly like Egyptians and wish the best for them.
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    TURTLE - August 28 2008 @ 8:51 am Make sure you get your butt over to Merida while in Mexico. You'll find very friendly, hard working people, the oldest cathedral in N.A. (built in part from Mayan runins), good food, pibil and yucateca styles and old haciendas (sisal). If you want pyramids without large crowds go to Kabah or Uxmal. This by itself would make for a great episode... Liked, not loved, the Egypt episode. Made you wonder how repressed the women are in this apparently male dominated society. Dont your 4x4 friends have wives and daughters???
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    Scott - August 28 2008 @ 12:43 pm I agree that Egypt is a sad place to take in, the people are so friendly but they are so poor and hungry. I visited while in the Navy and found that food wasn't bad but that I was overcome with the condition of the people and what they must endure! The Government should be ashamed of themselves!
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    Lena - August 28 2008 @ 1:44 pm Do you need a travel partner who loves food and traveling too?? I'll work for food
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    erin - August 28 2008 @ 6:47 pm An especially beautiful last paragraph. Thank you.
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    Carmelo Lisciotto - August 28 2008 @ 7:46 pm Tony have you done a trip to Tibet yet? Carmelo Lisciotto
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    Amy Williamson - August 28 2008 @ 8:51 pm While watching "No Reservations Egypt", my husband and I both noticed that while touring the spice market a large sack of indigo powder was shown. Neither of us have ever heard of indigo being used as a spice or in any culinary fashion beyond good 'ol Blue No. 2 food dye. Can anyone tell us if this was just a dye mixed in with spices or is there actually a use for indigo in cooking? We have looked extensively online but found no mention of indigo being used or sold as a "spice" for cooking. Thank you to anyone who can shed some light on this beautiful blue!
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    justfoodnow - August 28 2008 @ 10:47 pm I never missed a single one of your programmes and always marveled at your ability to eat. For a long while I read every book I could find on metabolism and the varsity library has now run out. So I decided that you either stopped at some point when the camera wasn't rolling or you jogged a lot. Anyway, as good as those programmes are/were - your writing is too. Actually, your writing is better. It's dastardly unfair that you are so talented but since I reap all the benefit, I thank you sir. :)
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    Annonymous - August 29 2008 @ 1:20 am I went to Egypt in June of 2001. I arrived the night before my friend, and got a cabbie from my hotel to take me to the sound and light show at the pyramids and bring me back afterward. the cab was a rotting Toyota wagon; we drove past women in black cutting up hunks of mystery meat in stainless steel bowls under bridges, and I swore I'd never be heard of again. But the hokiest narration and 'light show' couldn't dim the magnificence of the Pyramids--they dominate so utterly, and the dude was waiting for me next to the Kentucky Fried Chicken afterward. We also got stuck in our feluca; but my day in the Khan Al Khalil Bazaar when I wandered deep enough to be free from Pharoanic kitsch and seeing women buying baby clothes & kitchen bowls was awesome. Until some dude made me & chased me down trying to sell me some perfume bottles. My day at the Valley of the Kings was just as magical. I ended up alone in the tomb of Nefertari, didn't matter that 1000 Italians were stuffed into Ramses' tomb 1/4 mile away. Tony, I love you, and you surely ate better food than I did, but you were a fool to miss them up close.
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    cookingcop - August 29 2008 @ 9:13 am Great article on Egypt. It also demonstrates that us ugly Americans arre not reallllly hated all over the world as we are led to believe.
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    greg - August 30 2008 @ 11:31 am i just got suprised with tix for tony's atlantic city show and i'm bragging...
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    Tyler Wolfe - August 30 2008 @ 8:34 pm T, I am an addict of your show and enjoy watching your smart *** humor.. You absolutely crack my girlfriend and I up.. I know your going to be in Kansas City on Sep. 16th and I bought tickets to the event but the reception is sold out and I can't find any online.. If you or whomever reads this knows of a site I can purchase those, it would be greatly appreciated, especially if your going to cook at the Bristol..! Safe travels through your new season... Sincerely, Tyler Wolfe
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    Mike Warga - August 30 2008 @ 10:21 pm Well tony, I have to say that since about a year ago your show has been the only thing that I feel is worth watching on tv. I cant wait for season 5!! Keep up the great work. p.s. how about some more episodes in india...and maybe an amsterdam episode?
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    Monica - August 31 2008 @ 1:21 am I can't believe that you didn't visit the Pyramids! I thought before the end of the show, you were going to head on over. That is like our Friend that went to the Olympics to see our Friend run after Usain Bolt in the 100 & 200m. (He won 2 Bronzes)He was there for 2 weeks & didn't visit the Great Wall of China. He opted to have lunch with Kobe Bryant instead! My boyfriend & I were perplexed! The show on Japan brought back many memories. I taught Aerobics there & tried every type of Sushi that was put in front of me. Watching you with the Sushi Jam Session made me want to run out to the nearest Sushi Bar! You have the best job in the world! You should have a Contest where you get to take a complete stranger on your trips!
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    Andrew - August 31 2008 @ 2:59 am Hey Tony did you know that Rocco DiSpirito is on Dancing with the Stars. Gross!!!!
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    Lorelei - August 31 2008 @ 11:41 pm Ah Tony, I was going to tell you how much pleasure it gave me to read your last 2 blogs, but I think you might know that already. On reflection it also occurs to me that you might know how good they were too. I finished writing this dream sequence for the Vegas bit of my book and I'm fairly certain that it works. So it appears that I'm going to bite the bullet and give you something about the nature of creative endeavours. The bit about Vegas doesn't compare to what I consider to be my best line ever. It's in the last scene at the airport in NY. I'd repeat it here but I don't think it would work out of context. Every now and then I perform this odd little pilgrimage to the bottom of the document and read it. I can remember the moment I wrote that line in my journal, it was like I was watching it from really far away. Just sitting there and staring at it. Like it was some external event that had happened to me and I was just grateful to be there. Humbling, I think is what I mean. Anyway, I think perhaps you might have felt that way about the mexican woman and her indigo fingers. I certainly did.
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    Bill - September 01 2008 @ 2:23 am Tony, loved the Egypt show. Loved it more that you didn't go to the 'mids. Thanks for being so sensitive to the cultures you are in, it makes us Americans seem more...human? Wahoo! Season 5! Peace, Bill
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    Alicia - September 01 2008 @ 3:23 am Egypt is one of those countries that I always think: 'Maybe someday', I mean, how does one walk around without seeming like having an 'I'm a tourist' sign on the forehead? Hmmmm..yes, maybe someday. Of course, I cannot wait for the Mexico episode. Mexico City...my hometown, and yes, one of the culinary capitals of the world. And then you're going to Puebla: Mole, chalupas, semitas, pipian....ay, Tony, I wish I was there with you. BTW, funny you should mention zucchini blossoms. I just found some beautiful ones yesterday at the Mexican market and stocked up to make zucchini blossom/mushroom soup, and of course, zucchini blossom quesadillas....mmmm. The best. Thanks for this season and for keeping it real. Can't wait for next season. In the meantime, I shall watch every re-run. Keep having fun!
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    Frances Kehlbeck Civello - September 01 2008 @ 10:01 pm Best reference in the Egypt show? Yo Gabba Gabba's "There's a Party in My Tummy"
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    carneviva - September 02 2008 @ 12:40 am i was reading this blog waiting for Tony to admit he was miserable in Egypt. i was watching the show and couldn't help but notice his malcontent. he only looked peaceful out in the desert, away from the choking fumes and blaring noise of Cairo. i would give anything to wake up at dawn in the desert, a pseudo jim morrison insprired fantasy of mine. what?
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    Shashi - September 02 2008 @ 1:16 am Hi Anthony , I am regular watcher of your program on travel channel and food network. Just curious when are you planning to do a trip to India. Thanks Shashi
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    Michael from NJ - September 07 2008 @ 12:03 am I completely agree with the desert being clean. I was in Egypt for my work with a travel company 2 years ago checking out the tour and have been to the US S.W. wandering about. Unfortunately the Egypt trip was on more of the tourist side of things, but I still got to experience the culture in little pieces as I would sneak off to check the streets and interact with the people. There is nothing like standing amid sand dunes staring at the vastness, nothing as far as the eyes can see. It makes you feel truly small, yet great. Thank You for all shows the past few seasons. I look forward to the new season. Regards, Michael
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    Jessi - September 08 2008 @ 6:30 am you're beautiful, thank you.
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    Ahmed J Al-Essa - September 09 2008 @ 9:15 pm Toni, I was so excited when I saw your episode on Egypt. This is a country that has a very special sentimental place in my heart. I grew up travelling to Egypt every vacation the family had. I salute your tour, I've always been traveler more than a tourist. I respected your choice of not seeing the Pyramids. Trust me I feel the same way. The Egypt you showed people is the same one Najeeb Mahfouz showed in his timeless novels. To which I recommend that you read Al-Harafeesh Epic. It is a story that encomp&%$es most aspects of old Egyptian slums and allies. It's a long story and you'll enjoy it. Mr.Bourdain, Allow me as annoying fan of yours to tell you that you are an icon. You say and write what goes in my head !. I cannot wait to go to New York and eat at your bistro place. Or what used to be your place. I will be a regular on your blog. I wanna celebrate the phenomena we Bourdain. My generation is glad to see something that appeals to our intellect on tv. Thanks man !! Ahmed of the Lower Desert
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    romentic mobile - September 11 2008 @ 6:42 am Looks like a good place to visit. For more info about camera mobile click latest mobile
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    Nancy - September 13 2008 @ 8:57 pm As an Egyptian ex-patriot (actually I was just born there), and a now American, I thought despite your apparent misery at being there, you did the place justice. My family and I (we've all lived in Seattle for years) sat laughing at your "stone in the stomach" comment regarding the ful. My husband, a corn-fed American, couldn't have agreed more with the characterization (but he's learned to love the stuff)! The truth is the country is a gem but crumbling under years of corrupt government and religious extremism, it has seen better days. Please give it another chance and go to upper Egypt in the winter. That is the heart of the country and I didn't gain a true pride in my heritage until I went to karnak, luxor and the valley of the kings! Cheers, Nancy
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    caligal - September 16 2008 @ 6:28 am Now you KNOW nobody believes for one second you went all that way and did not go see those pyramids.............
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    Travel Posh - September 21 2008 @ 10:11 am I have been to Egypt just last year and yes the Pyraminds are over hyped and there is much more to Egypt that them. Anthony has rightly pointed out to this.
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    Want To Try - October 12 2008 @ 10:38 pm

    Just saw _Without Pyramids_ and the old recipe that included lintels and spaghetti caught my attention, but was not fast enough on the uptake to write all the keywords down. Can anyone reply with the recipe?

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    Greg - October 27 2008 @ 4:28 pm

    I just watched Egypt and I died laughing from the Yo Gabba Gabba reference. I'm glad we're not the only ones singing those songs constantly.

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    sohbet - October 31 2008 @ 10:39 am

    Just saw _Without Pyramids_ and the old recipe that included lintels and spaghetti caught my attention, but was not fast enough on the uptake to write all the keywords down. Can anyone reply with the recipe?

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    Kalyan - November 11 2008 @ 2:24 am

    Hi Tony, we went to Turkey recently and loved it. I don't know if you have done a show there. You must otherwise. the food is lovely. People are very friendly. And it is a perfect balance of cultures.
    Coincidentally we were trying to decide between Egypt and Turkey for the holiday. Decided against it for reasons which are similar to your experience. We are history buffs. But we have to work for our holidays. And we want to feel good during our holidays. Call me escapist but that's how it is. We felt good in Turkey. I don't think you felt good in Egypt

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    Florence - November 13 2008 @ 5:54 am

    Hei Tony, loved the Egypt show !! Have you done a trip to Cuba yet? Thnks for you blog, it's special :)
    Florence

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    chat - November 18 2008 @ 8:12 pm

    Thanks

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    Roger Harper - December 06 2008 @ 5:02 am

    Tony,
    I totally agree with you NOT going to the pyramids while in Cairo! I did go and was disappointed by the crowds, the buses, and with everyone with their hand out for money. Something this spectacular should be seen "one on one" not as a herd!
    You did give us good tips on the food. So, thanks very much!

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    Manolo Perez - December 19 2008 @ 10:10 am

    Tony - the largest city in the southern hemisphere, Sao Paulo, the metropolitan region has more than 20,000,000 people, descendants of the largest colonies outside their countries as Portuguese, Italian, Japanese living with nationalities as Spanish, Alemans, Jews, Korean, Arabic, Chinese and many others - the greater variety of foods and peoples of the world - outside the carnival, caipirinhas, feijoada, and more. And you never came to visit and show in your program - and sad

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    Tala - December 22 2008 @ 7:54 pm

    Hi Tony- I LOVE your show. I thought it was so cool that you went to Saudi and am wondering when you will be heading to Iran. I would especially recommend visiting Esfahan, a beautiful city, full of history and culture and the friendliest people ever. You'd be surprised how much fun Iran can be and the food...I'm sure you've tried Persian food. I'm born and raised in NYC and haven't been to Tehran in almost four years:( Would love to be your tour guide if you decide to go! Happy Holidays!

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    Gail - December 23 2008 @ 12:33 am

    Hi-Tony-I love your show.I really liked your segment on Egypt..Egypt is full of great food and a rich culture. Did you change your mind about seeing the Pyramids?

    Happy Holidays

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    amanda - December 28 2008 @ 2:18 pm

    I'm watching this episode for the second time and somehow missed the Yo Gabba Gabba quote the first time. It made me so giddy when I heard that come out of your mouth.

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    Ali - December 30 2008 @ 9:37 pm

    While you were in Egypt, did you happen to check out the garbage people, the "Zaballeen"? Not known for their cuisine as you might fancy, but they are definitely a population worth noticing, there are over 60,000 of them between Cairo, Gaza and Alexandria. They build their own economy within their communities based on garbage collecting alone. I've been tracking their progress for the last 4 years, they are the center of my research and I'll be in Jordan and Egypt soon enough to do more firsthand research. If you ever do decide to go back and check these guys out, you best let me know. They need more publicity, and help.

    I think I have finally found a glimpse of publicity:
    http://video.google.com/videoplay?docid=-6900938085921020443

  124. 124
    Tamar - January 02 2009 @ 11:23 am

    while in egypt, did you visit the Sinai?
    when ever i see your show i just know you would love it down here, with the bedouins, star filled sky of the desert, no egyptien official around and just the sound of the hot sweet tea being poured and the wood cracking in the fire (and a big fat ....).Would love to have you come visit. (no need for the film crew, just bring the wife and kid..)

    http://www.harbysplace.com

  125. 125
    karınca yumurtası, karınca yağı, karınca yumurtası yağı - January 02 2009 @ 8:09 pm

    good
    karinca yumurtasi

  126. 126
    jim - January 03 2009 @ 9:57 am

    Koshary is a beaut. When your guide named the ingredients and said it was a food imported to Egypt from India, what I thought of was kedgeree, a mix of rice and lentils. Is there a connection? The name and recipe are close?

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    twojeanonse - January 03 2009 @ 6:37 pm

    Nice to see so good informations. Very good blog.

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    Michele - January 08 2009 @ 2:37 pm

    First of all, I wonder, do you even have time to read any of these comments? And, secondly, my husband and I love to watch your shows, even in repeats. Thank you for doing the TRUE Egypt and avoiding the tourist traps (ie Pyramids, etc.). I am glad that you actually get in with the "locals" wherever you go and get "real". Keep up the good work! Your fellow foodie!!

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    Cheap web hosting - January 09 2009 @ 8:47 pm

    Hi,
    Nice Post. I read a lot of posts in this blog and found them very useful & interesting .
    Regards,
    Thomas Adora

  130. 130
    Margo - January 16 2009 @ 1:45 pm

    Mr. Bourdain, please come to Montreal Qubec Canada, and meet with my fav Daniel Pinard - chef/food journalist and Martin Picard - chef both food expert and owner of bistro called the Pied de Cochon (The PigKnukkle). Your show is soooooooooo extraordinaire and please don,t change a thing. It is so motivating about what is really left of the real food around the world. Japan was completely exploded; New York was a nerve cracking experience, Romania ...well I am not sure ... Egypt so poetic ... Laos so touching..

  131. 131
    David - January 28 2009 @ 4:26 pm

    I was in a US Army Officer Basic Course with an Egyptian officer. Devout Muslim who fasted...then got drunk chasing booty at the clubs. Egyptians are screwed with leaders who think they are derived from Pharoahs. "Do as I say, not as I do" Fudge that man, I walk the talk.

  132. 132
    Shari Markowitz - January 29 2009 @ 11:56 pm

    Love your show. We were in Egypt last summer. Ate at the Koshary restaurant. I did not enjoy it at all. My husband and one of my sons liked it. You missed out by not going to the pyramids. They are truely amazing to experience. They transcend anything "touristy". Although the amount of trash on the ground was completely surprising. Come on down to San Antonio for some Tex-Mex food.

  133. 133
    Sara H. - February 02 2009 @ 3:02 pm

    Anthony I love your show espcially the one you did in Saudi Arabia. I'm An American born Egyptian from Seattle, but I travel to Egypt very often, one thing I think you missed out on was eating Egyptian Seafood, Defintly my fav. I have to say though you went to some shitty restaurants in Cairo, but I understand why you did it. Since you loved the desert experience you would have loved Siwa, and Dahab. I know you don't like touristy but Sharm El sheik is a must, As a egyptian I was hit with culture shock, I was tanning on the beach and there was a topless russian chick on my left and next to her was a manakib(only the eyes showing) lady. Anything goes plus food is awesome there. It would be a pleasure to be your tour guide there. P.S The pyramids are only cool when you go the back way with a horse at sunset, going inside them is overated.

  134. 134
    Australia hotels - February 04 2009 @ 5:49 am

    Hi Anthony, loved the Egypt show!! Though I never saw them except as shapes, seen through the haze from the window of a passing car. I was not at ease in Cairo. It wasn't the gun-packing security types we were required to have along at all times.

  135. 135
    designer prom - February 11 2009 @ 5:19 pm

    Thanks for it, I can be alert from those kind of this

  136. 136
    Egipt - March 06 2009 @ 9:56 am

    Amazing article. I will send to my friend.

  137. 137
    Nihal - March 06 2009 @ 7:45 pm

    Huge fan but Dude... Short show on Egypt!! you totally did the touristy things :) without the pyramids! you need an insiders view.. not visiting Sharm el Sheikh? crime in my opinion... and you did not get a good home cooked meal from someone there!!! call me sometime I'll hook you up. Agree with the poster who said we watch travel channel for you

  138. 138
    Nihal - March 06 2009 @ 7:47 pm

    P.s. by home cooked meal I don't mean the one that you had with Yasmine?(that was her name right?)

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    p - March 14 2009 @ 6:14 pm

    yeah!

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    Sohbet Siteleri - March 23 2009 @ 11:49 am

    thanks for the info Sohbet et

  141. 141
    Jenny - April 09 2009 @ 8:59 am

    Eat Your Heart Out, Anthony Bourdain

    Anthony - you were a resounding theme of my trip to Egypt. Being a big fan of “No Reservations”. My friend and I found ourselves enjoying almost all the food (as you do), visiting remote locations, and seeing what the locals truly eat. From pigeon to kushari, the food was a wonderful complement to Egypt.

    After reaching the Bahariya Oasis in Central Egypt we stopped on the side of the road at a local museum. Greeted by the artist who created the museum from scratch, Mahmoud showed us around.

    Next, we had lunch at his home, which was a lovely start to our trip with a tomato and cucumber salad, fried fish marinated in garlic and onion with other spices and rice, and pita bread of course – a delicious start to our self-fulfilling prophecy of “Becoming Bourdain” (Antoinette?). As we sat on the floor of Mahmoud’s home – we met his three children, drank fresh water from the oasis, and we learned that he would be our driver and guide, with Kromel, for our time in the oasis. As we ventured out into the black desert and then the white, we stopped to get a chi-cha pipe to enjoy by the campfire and drove through the fantastic natural structures formed in the white desert.

    Then, we found our camp for the night and the environment was set. A table was put out and a fire started. We chopped vegetables for the salad and Mahmoud put the marinated chicken on the fire. With a small propane devise – the rice and noodles were made. Who knew that traditional ramen-type noodles – with a bit of garlic, lemon, and tomatoes could be so good. The chicken was heaven and the roasted potatoes were as well…all with a small fire and simple spices. The best start to the trip and, in the end, our favorite part but Egypt would still produce amazing food - I mean the eggplant alone is heaven.

    When we returned to Cairo, we asked our driver to stop somewhere good for falafel take away – a small joint gave us five pitas filled with different goodness for a total of $3. EYHO, AB!

    Unlike you, we saw the pyramids. All were as impressive as expected but so close to the city…they lost a bit of their grandeur.

    In continuing our search to exceed and supercede you – Kim and I ventured out into downtown Cairo looking for food. Sure – we saw Pizza Hut, Hardees, McDonalds, and Little Caesars…but that’s not what we wanted. We continued walking – the only Westerners on the street – and Kim said- let’s go in here. I feared that we couldn’t read the menu -- what to order? A man greets us and says – Small, Medium, Large. Whew – we can do that – small please! What arrived was a traditional dish that we had heard about and were supposed to try – kushari. It looks like something I would “cook” as a child in g’ma’s kitchen, different noodles, chick peas, fried onions, and tomato sauce spread over it all. Quite delish although a nap is in order directly after. Ah yes – we continue our Bourdain status.

    Pope in Cairo

    Only ten percent of Egypt is Christian indicated by a small cross tattooed on their inner wrist. Our friend had agreed to show us around Cairo and told us Wednesday night the Pope of Egypt would be at the cathedral in Cairo answering questions from the congregation. So he came to get Kim and I and we took the metro (underground train) to the cathedral. We bought the sacred bread on the street for the service (EYHO, AB) and went in to witness the ceremony. After mass, back on the metro to eat at one of our friend's favorite places…the main dish…pigeon stuffed with rice. Tres AB, but also like you, Mr. Bourdain, it wasn’t our favorite…not much meat on the Egyptian pigeons.

    Our final day in Cairo, Kromel would meet us for a felucca (sailboat) ride on the Nile and one last Bourdain moment before we boarded the train. This would solidify our status; we enjoyed hommos – a spicy soup with chickpeas in the bottom drank through a straw. After a quick climb over the guard rail, we sat on plastic stools admiring the water and all the young Egyptians on the banks of the Nile. We had reached… nay… surpassed our EYHO, AB goals.

  142. 142
    gloryb - April 11 2009 @ 6:46 pm

    Someone posted in regards to a place you where Bourdain indulged in a meat-fest. What is the name of that place?
    There was no mention of the name nor did the camera get a shot of that establishment. Doesn't it make sense that if you are going to do a travel show on food that you would think about mentioning the places you ate? Guess I'll have to find out myself when I get there....

  143. 143
    Guitar Chord Charts - April 23 2009 @ 11:06 am

    On TV, we see Egypt as very romantic glamorous city. It is an ancient city with architectural wonders. But when you are there, you see poverty everywhere. The food is good but you just can stop thinking about them.

  144. 144
    Pedicure Chair - April 29 2009 @ 2:43 am

    What you see in Lawrence Of Arabia, is not a true representation of Egypt. Egypt history and culture has so much more to offer

  145. 145
    club penguin - May 24 2009 @ 9:27 pm

    This is a country that has a very special sentimental place in my heart. I grew up travelling to Egypt every vacation the family had. I salute your tour, I've always been traveler more than a tourist. I respected your choice of not seeing the Pyramids. Trust me I feel the same way. The Egypt you showed people is the same one Najeeb Mahfouz showed in his timeless novels.

  146. 146
    Get A Trip - May 28 2009 @ 3:07 am

    I think Egypt is still as mysterious and glamorous as it ever was or how it is portrayed in the Bond type of movies /the spy genre where they all go out for an exotic meal with dancing, Egyptian decor and you can literally taste the ambience of the place. Egypt will always be that for me and more. Climbing the pyramids after the camel ride. Wearing galabayos and headbands. It's all there. Thanks Tony for all the painted memories you always bring back to us -- you are the best.

  147. 147
    Bilety lotnicze - June 09 2009 @ 11:50 am

    I understand the feeling you describe on this post. It was heartbreaking to see the poverty in Egypt--> really evident when you travel between tourist sites.

  148. 148
    muhabbet - June 14 2009 @ 1:49 pm

    thank you..

  149. 149
    leona lucente - July 02 2009 @ 9:23 pm

    Hey Tony, you missed! The pyramids are the best. I've seen ruins all over the world,and nothing compares.Yes the people are poor,but they are so rich in many other ways.
    Thanks for showing us the world.


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Anthony Bourdain

Meet Anthony Bourdain

Anthony Bourdain is a 28-year veteran of professional kitchens, having worked as a dishwasher, line cook and chef in places good, bad and horrible -- most of them in New York City. Read Anthony Bourdain's full biography.


About No Reservations

"No Reservations" dives headfirst into life's colorful and rich pageant. Join Anthony Bourdain as he circumnavigates the globe on his conquest to discover the cities, villages and countries that provide life's truest surprises. Learn more about the show.


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