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New York to LA to Palm Springs. Palm Springs to LA, car to Santa Barbara. Back again. LA to New York. Back to Palm Springs via Chicago. Palm Springs to San Franciso to New York. New York to Santiago, Chile ... One week in the life.
There's a heartbreaking bit of business in "The Wrestler" (one of many small, sad and all-too-real touches). Mickey Rourke, playing broken down, way-past-his-prime wrestler, Randy "the Ram" Robinson, finishes up a bout, changes out of his tights and packs them away -- then toddles out of the locker room dragging a wheeled carry-on suitcase behind him. That tiny, minor note hit me hard, watching it on pay-per-view somewhere between New York and some where else, a spongy hotel bed with the climate control churning out a jet engine roar, a shaky, trilling sound as the mini-bar's compressor kicked in. That damn suitcase -- looking particularly tragic trailing behind Rourke's freakish, giant, action-figure bulk reminded me of well ...me.
Continue Reading How Can I Miss You, When You Won't Go Away?.
How Can I Miss You, When You Won't Go Away?
We're calling Monday night's show "DISAPPEARING MANHATTAN,, but this is not to suggest that Katz's Deli, or Keen's, or Russ & Daughters are going to fade away anytime soon (if ever). What I am saying with this "Special" episode is that these are exactly the kind of old school, hometown places I love; uniquely New York institutions who have survived the brutal caprices of style and changing tastes -- and are still worth going out of your way to patronize. Let me make this clear: "Old" does not necessarily mean "good." Just cause it's a "New York institution" doesn't mean you want to eat there. If it did, New Yorkers might actually eat at Tavern On The Green -- and Luchows would still be open.
Continue Reading Not Fade Away.
The Oxford English Dictionary defines the word "prurient" as "having a mental itching or an uneasy or morbid craving." Secondarily, as "having or characterized by an unhealthy concern with sexual matters" or "encouraging such a concern."
With Monday night's special, FOOD PORN, "encouraging such a concern" is exactly what we were going for. Just swap the word "food" for "sexual."
Continue Reading The Money.
There's a marvelous scene in "Lawrence of Arabia" where Peter O'Toole, playing T.E. Lawrence, looks out at the vast, empty desert and says something like, " I like the desert. It's ... clean." And I've always admired that particular breed of slightly potty Englishmen -- the Arabists, cartographers, explorers, spies, scholars and mischief-makers--who fell in love with the 360 degree vistas of sand and sky they found in the Middle East. I saw that same love up close in the face of our Bedouin guide, who spends, he said, most of his time out there, roaring around in 4x4 vehicles with his buddies, sleeping under the stars, answerable to no one.
And I was happiest during my stay in Egypt sitting under those same stars, a fire crackling and throwing off sparks nearby, belly full of roast lamb, surrounded -- as far as the eye could see -- by nothing but the dark rises of an ocean of sand. But Cairo was another matter.
Continue Reading Without Pyramids.
"Look," said Ali, an Egyptian/American chef, pointing at a plateful of traditional Alexandrian food in his Queens restaurant. "The history of the world."
He had just put in extraordinarily succinct terms what any well traveled eater, student of ethnic or national food ways -- or serious food nerd has come to know: that what is on your plate, the choice or selection, or preferences -- or ingredients -- almost any place you are eating, are the end result of movements of people and resources, the punch line of a story usually involving (at some point in history), deprivation, starvation, colonialism, slavery, greed, and warfare. No need for us to get all depressed about that.
The end result of the above -- at least (and only) as far as cuisine -- is more often than not, good.
Continue Reading Politics and the Dinner Table.